Latest Posts

It's Al Fresco Dining Time!

On the East Coast we’re in the middle of a spring heat wave.  Sunshine.  Ninety degrees.  Pleasant breeze.  All this beautiful weather spurs me to do one thing — drag my deathly pale, vitamin-D deprived body outside to dine al fresco.

Italian for “fresh” or “open air,” al fresco refers quite simply to eating outdoors.  At one time I thought that this was ridiculous.  Who wants to swat away flies and bees, listen to irksome traffic and breath in pungent car exhaust as she eats?   As it turns out, I do.   As soon as the thermometer tops 55 and restaurants start erecting those towering, tree-like space heaters, I’m sliding into a wrought iron cafe chair and dining in the bracing spring air.

Bundled up, waiting for lunch in early March

Why the radical change of heart?  After a cold, dark winter spent indoors I no longer can bear to waste a minute of sunlight.  Pass me my sunglasses and I’ll be off to bask in the sun and nosh on refreshing, seasonal fare. 

No gazpacho or vichyssoise on the menu?  No problem.  Although lighter dishes seem more appropriate for an al fresco atmosphere, I’m not opposed to a plate of spaghetti or bowl of hot parsnip soup.  As long as I can consume it under bright skies and in fresh air, I’ll be happy with the cuisine.   

When cooking for an al fresco night at home, I tend to steer clear of heavier foods.  A chilled couscous salad, plate of steamed asparagus, zahtar-seasoned chicken or simply a bowl of strawberries Romanoff are all favorite offerings for a warm evening of outdoor eating. 

CHILLED COUSCOUS SALAD
Serves 6 to 8

8 ounces Israeli couscous
12 ounce can of chopped tomatoes, drained
2 red bell peppers, finely chopped
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped into small chunks
3 tablespoons of Moroccan (black) olives, finely chopped
handful of chickpeas
¼ cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup of olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon curry powder
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Cook the couscous per package’s instructions then tumble into a large bowl.
        
Add the tomatoes, peppers, scallions, cucumber, olives and chickpeas to the couscous. Toss to combine.
        
Whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, cumin, curry and cayenne pepper then pour over the couscous. Stir until dressing is evenly distributed. Refrigerate and allow the salad to absorb the dressing for at least 1 hour. Serve cold or at room temperature.

CHICKEN ZAHTAR
Serves 4

½ cup olive oil
4 chicken breasts
2 to 4 tablespoons zahtar
sea salt

Pour the oil in a baking dish and put the chicken breast in the oil, flipping over and coating each side completely. Sprinkle the zahtar on both sides of the breast, patting the flesh to embed the slivers of sesame seeds, etc.
        
Cover, refrigerate and allow to marinate for a few hours.
        
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the chicken in a room temperature baking dish and insert in the oven. Roast for 45 minutes or slightly longer, until chicken is well-cooked. Sprinkle over a little sea salt and serve.

STRAWBERRIES ROMANOFF IN MERINGUES
Courtesy of Liz Theisen
Serves 10

2 quarts ripe strawberries, washed
1 (6-ounce) can frozen orange juice concentrate, defrosted
1 cup port wine
Sugar
3 tablespoons Mandarine liqueur
2 cups heavy whipping cream
Forgotten Meringues (recipe follows)
Flowers or flower petals or shelled pistachios

For Meringues:
6 egg whites
1-½ teaspoons lemon juice or ½ teaspoon cream of tartar
2 cups sugar
 
Hull strawberries and place in a large bowl. Add orange juice concentrate and port and season to taste with a little sugar, if desired. Gently stir and allow berries to mellow in this mixture for 2 hours. Add Mandarine liqueur, taste and add more sugar, if desired. Whip cream with or without sugar to taste. Fill meringue shells with berries, garnish with flowers or pistachios and serve with whipped cream on the side. Serves about 10.
        
Forgotten Meringues: (These meringues bake while you sleep.)
        
Beat egg whites with lemon juice or cream of tartar until frothy. Gradually add sugar and beat until stiff and glossy. Pipe into 12 nest shapes or drop by small spoonfuls in circles on brown paper on a baking sheet.
        
Place tray in preheated 400-degree oven, close door and turn off the heat. (Don’t peak!) Let stand overnight in the oven. Meringues will be baked by morning. Makes 12.
       

       

Ireland's Windy West Coast

Kylemore Abbey at base of Duchruach Hill

Returning to a holiday spot does have its perks.  Since Sean and I had hit most of the major sites — Newgrange, Cliffs of Moher, Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, Blarney Castle and Belfast, Dunluce Castle and the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland — previously, we opted to explore the less visited but no less beautiful attractions of the Republic’s west coast.  Smart move!  This region has it all — majestic mountain ranges, crystal clear lakes, loads of grazing sheep, quaint villages, good restaurants and a wealth of historic sites.

16th century Portmuna Castle, Portumna

Portumna Castle – Built in the 16th century, Portumna Castle was left in ruins after an 1826 fire.  Restoration work began 30 years ago and continues to this day.  Beautiful setting.  Bad camera karma.  Here my latest Nikon, the D200, breathed its last breath.  What is it about Ireland and my cameras?

Galway with part of the Spanish arch to the far left

Galway — Possessing few historic sites, this medieval, coastal, Gaelic-speaking city may not be the most obvious destination.  However, fresh seafood, excellent pubs and a vibrant downtown scene make Galway a perfect stopping point.  You can also catch a ferry to the Aran Islands from here.

Aughnanure Castle, Oughterard

Aughnanure Castle — Built along the Drimneen River and supported by natural archways, much of this 13th century castle tumbled into the water centuries ago.   The human inhabitants may be long gone but hundreds of bats now reside in the tower house roof.  Impressive tower.  Cool atmosphere.

Kylemore Abbey — This 19th century castle sits beside a lake at the base of Duchruach Hill.  Quite a dramatic setting for what is now a Benedictine girls’ boarding school.  For 13 Euros (about $17) you can visit three rooms in Kylemore Abbey or you can just snap photos from outside for free.

Woman pushing bike uphill on Inishmore

The Aran Islands a/k/a Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer — You’ve read the story.  You’ve seen the pictures.  For more information, check out the Aran Islands website.

Mountain range and lake in the Connemara, County Galway

Connemara — A vast region of land west of Galway city, Connemara is a jumble of coastlines, mountain ranges, fjords, bogs, fields and beaches.  It’s also a spectacular area to hike, photograph or stop for a picnic.

Heron coming in for a landing outside our room at the Maltings

Grey Herons –Think of them as the pigeons of Ireland’s west coast; they are everywhere!  Their huge nests dot the tree tops, sometimes with as many as five per tree.  Look for them near lakes, rivers and streams and, if you are as lucky as we were, outside your hotel room.

Man (and Woman) of Aran

Seals sunbathing on Inishmore, Aran Islands

After renting a spiffy black Corsa, Sean and I set off for the Republic of Ireland’s west coast and the Aran Islands.   There we caught a stomach churning, 50-minute ferry to Inishmore, the largest of the three islands.  Home to those lovely Irish, wool, knitted sweaters and to such movies as “Man of Aran,” Inishmore is likewise renowned for its rugged landscape, blustery winds and rocks, rocks and more rocks.

Horse cart in Kilronan, Inishmore

While most tourists opt to take a tour bus, hop a ride on a horse cart or rent a bike to see the island, we decided to hike.  Little did I know that the hike would be ALL uphill.   Huff.  Puff.  Huff. Puff.  Why is it that I never can find a taxi when I need one?

Dun Aenghus

Our destination was Dun Aenghus, a semi-circular, prehistoric fort perched precariously on the edge of a 90-meter cliff.  This was only one of several prehistoric sites on Inishmore but, as the others were even further away, Dun Aenghus was where we went.  Fortunately, Dun Aenghus is reputed to be the best site on the island so my laziness didn’t impinge upon our activities too much.

Re-energizing with a picnic

Along the way to Dun Aenghus we stopped to have a picnic of white cheddar cheese, buttermilk wheat scones, apples and soda on one of the many flat rocks covering the landscape.  As we ate, the wind picked up and the sky turned an ominous gray.   Miraculously, the rain never came.   That might be a first for us, Inishmore and Ireland.

Horse and foal on our hike to Dun Aenghus

Lunch finished, we trudged up the narrow, winding road, passing grazing cows and calves, sleeping baby goats, a horse and her foal, seals sunbathing in an inlet, ruins of an old church, two thatch-roofed houses, and, of course, the ever present rock walls.   We also strolled past more than a few bicyclists pushing their bikes up the hill.  Hey, at least I didn’t have to haul a bicycle — and me — across the island!

Sean on the cliff's edge at Dun Aenghus

About a mile from the fort a tour bus driver stopped and asked if we’d like a lift.  Would we ever!  After over two hours of walking I was more than happy to accept that free ride.  In less than five minutes we arrived at the admissions gate and the driver set off to pick up some paying tourists.   Rats!  Here I thought that he was driving us all the way to the top of the cliff.

Cliff, Dun Aenghus and two brave -- or insane -- guys sitting near the edge

From the base it was a 15-minute climb up a rocky path to the summit.  There we had a breathtaking view of the island, ocean and all the poor souls struggling up to Dun Aenghus.  We also explored the three concentric, stone circles that make up the mysterious fort, mysterious because no one knows who lived there or why there were only three sides to the structure.  My guess about the latter is that part of the cliff fell away, taking the fourth side with it.  Then again, maybe not. 

Dublin Days

Haypenny Bridge over the River Liffey

A few weeks ago Sean and I decided to revisit Ireland.  Cheap airfare and the desire to relax in friendly, familiar environs made this country the obvious vacation choice.   So, setting aside more exotic locals, we hopped a flight to Dublin on Easter Sunday and kicked off our first full-fledged holiday of 2009.

Hodges Figgis on Dawson Street

As anyone who has traveled with me can attest, no trip is complete without several nerdy and culinary activities.  In Dublin the nerdiness comes partly in the form of a pilgrimage to Ireland’s largest bookshop, Hodges Figgis on Dawson Street.  Opened in 1786, the four-story store carries over 60,000 books.  As if I need another book!  That doesn’t stop me from browsing the shelves at Hodges Figgis or at other charming, well-stocked shops such as The Winding Stair near the Haypenny Bridge or even the chain Waterstones, right across from Hodges Figgis.

Outside the National Museum of Ireland

The fun doesn’t end there.  Oh no.  Along with bookstores I have to check out the city’s museum offerings.  This time Sean and I revisited the National Gallery of Ireland where last year I smashed my Nikon N80, bringing an end to my film SLR days.  We said a few words in front of the portrait of Bono, where my camera met its tragic end, and then poked around the rest of the art museum. We also checked out the National Museum of Ireland where the gruesome remains of 4 “bog men” are displayed.  Nothing like looking at dessicated corpses right before lunch.

Udon noodles at Mao

Speaking of food, I am always pleased to report that the days of boiled potatoes and tough mutton dishes are long gone.  Ireland has undergone a culinary renaissance with chefs incorporating ingredients from around the globe while staying true to the ‘buy fresh, buy local’ movement.  Sure, I can order such standards as fish and chips with a pint of stout but I can also indulge in such specialities as Cashel blue cheese tarts or udon noodles topped with squash, mushrooms and green peas.

Extremely sleep deprived but satisfied after brunch at Elephant & Castle, Temple Bar

Where to find all this great food in Dublin?  We frequent old favorites such as the Asian restaurants Cafe Mao and Wagamama and the organic, locally sourced restaurant The FarmElephant and Castle likewise remains a beloved spot.  While its flagship restaurant resides on Waverly in the heart of NY’s Greenwich Village, I am partial to the Temple Bar locale.

Sean checking up on the news at the Fitzwilliam

After a tough day of wandering Dublin’s crowded streets, checking out all the fine eating, drinking, reading and artsy establishments, Sean and I head back to our spacious room at the Fitzwilliam Hotel.  Overlooking St. Stephen’s Green, the Fitzwilliam is a bit posh by usual travel standards but well worth the extra Euros.   Great location, great services and a great view.

Buildings bordering St. Stephen's Green

Joi de Vivre in New Orleans

Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral

No matter how many times I travel to New Orleans, I remain as in love with this city as I was the very first time.  So many beautiful sites.  So much wonderful food, music and drink.  Is it any wonder why I return again and again to the Crescent City?

Every trip there is different.   One time I might roam around the museums, taking in the Cabildo, Ogden Museum of Southern Art or New Orleans Museum of Art.   Another time it might be a trip to the Audubon Zoo, a plantation tour or boat ride through the swamps.  Then there are the seasonal events such as Mardi Gras, the St. Patrick’s Day Parade and Jazz Fest.  All good stuff.   

On the most recent journey I had the luxury of hanging out with a New Orleanian, my husband’s cousin Mike.  Thanks to him, I could experience life as a local as well as revisit some favorite tourist spots. 

Beignets from Cafe du Monde

Beignets from Cafe du Monde — They’re a New Orleans institution and a must-have on any trip here.  Soft, warm and blanketed in powdered sugar, these French delicacies hooked me at first bite.  A word of warning:  Wear black and you’ll look as though you’ve had a massive dandruff attack.  The sugar flies everywhere!

Mike pouring Guinness at the Kerry 

The Kerry Irish Pub — Located on Decatur Street in the heart of the French Quarter, the Kerry Irish Pub was recently voted the best place to spend St. Patrick’s Day by USA Today.  Perhaps I’m a tad biased but I think that the Kerry is the best place to while away any day.  Warm atmosphere.  Friendly patrons and staff.   Cold drinks.  Free, live music.  I couldn’t ask for anything more.       

St. Louis Cemetery No. 1

St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 — Live below sea level in a city with strong French ties and you end up burying your dead above ground.  An unexpected outcome is that you attract not only mourners but also tourists to your grave sites.  The oldest and most famous, St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, has been drawing crowds since 1789.  The cemetery houses both the famous and infamous.  This includes the city’s first African-American mayor, Ernest “Dutch” Morial” and voodoo queen Marie Laveau.  You decide which is which.    

Cioppino at Irene's  

Delectable dining — With world renowned restaurants from Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme and local hot spots such as the French-Italian Irene’s Cuisine and the Spanish-Mediterranean Lola’s, I never go hungry in New Orleans.  After this trip I have two new favorites to add to my list, Coop’s Place and Cafe Envie, both on Decatur Street in the French Quarter.  Fresh, wholesome food, New Orleans style.      

Emily and Kathy laughing over their Sazeracs

Sazeracs at Tujagues — It wasn’t our drink of choice but a Sazerac from Tujagues is another New Orleans original.  As the bartender stated, it’s ‘alcohol, alcohol, alcohol’ and a tiny bit of sugar.  Made from rye whiskey, bitters, herbsaint, a sugar cube and lemon peel, it packs one huge punch.  Once again, as the bartender said, instruct your friends to sip it; tell your enemies that it’s a shot. 

Musicians in Jackson Square

Live music on every corner — In New York it seems as though almost every other person is an actor.  In New Orleans it’s musicians who reign.  As a result, whether in a club or bar, on a street corner or in a square, you’re bound to hear incredible blues, jazz, rock or even folk.  Great music.  Great fun.      

Soup Up

Why, oh why, do I love soup?  Is it because it comes in so many forms and from so many different cuisines?  Maybe it’s the versatility; almost any food that you can plunk into a pot can be made into soup. Chicken, clams, lobster, yogurt, garlic, corn, potato, tomato, melon . . .. Then again, it could simply be because I’m too lazy to chew solids.   Nah!  Can’t be that! 

Although it’s been served since roughly 6000 B.C., “soup” first entered the English lexicon in the 17th century.  Derived from the French word ‘soupe,’ it initially referred to broth poured over bread.  The dish quickly evolved into a liquid consumed on its own, without the sodden hunk of bread.  Later it came to include not only consommes but also bisques and meat- and vegetable-laden fare.   

Because heartier soups often appeared as the sole dinner offering in poor, rural areas, many deemed them to be peasant food.   Even today people frequently think of soup not as a meal in itself but as accompaniment – “soup and salad” – or as the first course.   Yet, these thicker offerings can be the perfect supper.  Simple to make, yet still nutritional and filling, they remain a time-pressed cook’s dream.   Throw everything into the pot, bring the ingredients to a boil, allow the flavors to meld together and – voila! – dinner is done.  Guess those peasants knew what they were doing!    

Soup — it’s one-pot cooking at its best.  And that’s why I love it so. 

POTATO LEEK SOUP
Serves 6

6 ounces leeks, cleaned and diced
2 tablespoons butter
1 pound Idaho or Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced
4 cups chicken stock
splash of heavy cream
salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter in small stockpot. Add the leeks and sweat until transparent.  Add the potatoes and cook for 5 more minutes.
        
Add the chicken stock and bring to boil. Skim then reduce heat and simmer for about 30 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.  Season with salt and pepper then pour into a blender and puree.  Return to the soup to the stockpot. Check seasonings and add a splash of cream. Stir then serve.

AJO BLANCO
Also known as “white gazpacho,” this chilled Spanish soup is a refreshing repast on warm nights and hot days.
Serves 4 to 6

7¼ ounces blanched almonds
4 cloves garlic, skins removed
1 slice stale white bread, crusts removed
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Handful green grapes, cut in half lengthwise
Dash of paprika

Place ice cubes in 2¼ cups water to chill. Place almonds, garlic, bread, salt and olive oil in a blender or food processor and process until finely chopped. With the food processor or blender running, slowly add 2¼ cups ice water. If the soup appears too thick, add more water. (It should be creamy but not thin or runny.) Add the vinegar and white pepper and pulse a few times.
        
Pour the liquid into container or soup tureen and refrigerate until chilled. Ladle Ajo Blanco into bowls and gently place several halved grapes and a sprinkle of paprika on top of each bowl. Serve immediately.

Sunday Rituals

Greenflea in late February, sunshine but fewer vendors

For heathens (or hedonists) like me, Sunday consists not of rest and religious services but of food and flea markets.   At Isabella’s on Columbus and W. 77th I worship the concept of brunch, that wonderful meal offering me the options of both breakfast and lunch.  As an added bonus, Isabella’s brunch comes with a complimentary Bloody Mary, Bellini, Campari, mimosa or glass of champagne and a basket of raisin-fennel and carrot breads.   Is it any wonder why I bound out of bed?   

Isabella's brunch buddies 

Suffering from a terrible sweet tooth, I usually order the carmelized banana-stuffed French toast.  Topped with strawberries macerated in Grand Marnier sauce, it’s both decadent and ever so slightly good for me.  (Just remember, whether sauteed in sugar and butter or soaked in orange liqueur, it’s still fruit.  Or so I keep telling myself.)  On mornings when I’m hankering a cholesterol boost, I opt for Isabella’s smoked salmon Benedict on a buttermilk biscuit with a side of home fries.  And, on those rare Sundays when I’m feeling a tad health conscious, I order the seasonal fruit plate.      

Greenflea with Natural History Museum in background

After brunch it’s across the street to the temple of quirky consumption, GreenFlea.  Looking for bronze Buddha, 19th century doorknob, pint of half sours or a sweater from Ecuador?  Greenflea’s got them all and so much more.  With proceeds going to the local school I can splurge on that vintage Clash t-shirt and still head home feeling relatively guilt-free.        

Home Cooked Comfort

Day after day I read the newspaper, listen to NPR and watch the news and feel surprisingly fortunate.  Granted, most of the publications for which I write have declared bankruptcy and my monthly financial statements have become the butt of sad jokes.  Yet, to paraphrase the Republican party of the 1920’s, I still have ‘a chicken in the pot and a car in the backyard, to boot. ‘  

Where I notice this economic downturn is in the kitchen.  It’s not how often I cook but what I cook that differs.  Gone are the big, time consuming dinners featuring exotic ingredients found only at gourmet and specialty shops.  Instead I now make simpler, more comforting fare. 

Ratatouille 

One such heartening meal is ratatouille.  After yet another day of dire news I can think of nothing more nurturing than tucking into a warm bowl of this garlic-scented, vegetable-rich, Provencal stew.  With eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers and hints of basil, oregano and thyme, it gives me a much needed lift when I’m down.

Who doesn’t feel bolstered by a good, hot soup?  I know that I do.  Pumpkin, chicken with orzo, vegetarian black bean, potato leek, vegetable and lentil-chestnut soups all boost me up when I’m hungry, tired and a bit blue.   

When wallowing in carbohydrates is what I crave, I dig out my 8×8 baker and mix together some macaroni and cheese.  Introduced to America by our third president, mac and cheese is the epitome of Depression-era comfort food. Today I tend to deviate from the original recipe of macaroni, cheddar and a bechamel sauce and jazz up my dish with a variety of cheeses, mushrooms, tomatoes or a bit of basil.  No matter how it’s made, this dish never fails to satisfy and soothe.

MACARONI, TOMATO, BASIL AND GOAT CHEESE
Serves 6

2 cups elbow macaroni
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups skim milk
6 ounces goat cheese, broken into small pieces
½ cup cheddar cheese, grated
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
1 ½ cups tomatoes (roughly 2 medium-sized tomatoes), seeded and diced
1 tablespoon fresh basil, finely chopped
1/3 cup bread crumbs

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.   Butter the bottom and sides of an 8×8 baking dish and set aside.

Following the directions on the package, cook the macaroni until al dente.

Meanwhile, in a medium-sized saucepan melt 2 tablespoons of butter then add the flour, whisking until well combined.  Cook the roux for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

Over medium heat slowly add the milk to the roux, stirring to incorporate.  Cook together until slightly thickened.  Add the cheeses and ground pepper to the liquid.  Stir periodically until well-combined then remove from the heat. 

Drain the macaroni.  Tumble it into the pan with the cheese sauce and mix them together.  Add the tomatoes and minced basil and stir to evenly distribute macaroni, cheese, tomatoes and basil.  Spoon the entire mixture into the prepared baking dish.

Melt the remaining tablespoon of butter and pour it over the breadcrumbs.  Mix together until the crumbs are coated with butter and then sprinkle over the top of the macaroni and cheese. 

Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes at which time the bread crumbs should be golden and the macaroni and cheese ready to eat.                

An Excuse for Gluttony

Some of the goodies at Jack's 

As I sit here, gauze jammed into my left cheek after oral surgery, my thoughts turn to all the solid food that I won’t be eating for the next few days and all the delectable goodies that I consumed over the weekend.  This year Valentine’s Day — and my impending trip to the oral surgeon — served as the ideal reason to go out and indulge.

Sticky toffee cake at Telepan  The gorging began on Friday the 13th with dinner at the organic, seasonal, artisanal restaurant Telepan.  I jumped headlong into the feasting with an appetizer of house-smoked brook trout on a buckwheat-potato blini while Sean sensibly began his meal with a winter salad.  For entrees there was polenta souffle with wild mushrooms and corn hominy for me and roasted chicken with chicken liver dumplings and Brussels sprouts for Sean.  The best part of any meal, and particularly this meal, was dessert — sticky toffee cake with creme fraiche ice cream and candied cranberries.  Wow!

Americanos, oreos and chocolate chip cookies at Jack's  Sweets stayed on the menu for Saturday.  After a healthful breakfast of yogurt, granola, bananas and berries Sean and I eventually made our way down to the Village and Jack’s for cups of organic, fair-trade, stir brewed coffee.  I’d travel miles for coffee good in both flavor and intentions but this wasn’t the only thing drawing me to one of the 10 best coffee bars in the U.S.  I was lured by the cookies, especially the homemade chocolate chip and Oreos.  These, along with a toasted sesame bagel, represented phase one of lunch.

Farmhouse cheese platter at Puck Fair

Phase two came a few hours later, a few blocks east in SoHo.  Tired from walking around Three Lives, the Union Square Greenmarket and Chinatown, we dropped by Puck Fair in SoHo and noshed on a farmhouse cheese platter with Irish soda bread, Branston pickle, apple slivers and pecans. 

Miguel and Sean, mistaken for a couple in front of Joe

The binging didn’t end in SoHo.  Back in the Village Sean, his co-worker Miguel and I stopped by another beloved coffee shop, Joe, on the corner of Gay and Waverly.  Outside the crowded shop Miguel and Sean sipped their lattes and mugged for their snap-happy coffee companion. 

By this point I felt as stuffed as an oreo from Jack’s.  Nonetheless, Sean and I headed back uptown for dinner at the French bistro Metisse.  Neither of us had realized that the restaurant was serving a special, 4-course, prix fixe menu on Valentine’s night. We persevered through the soup course but by the time my escargot appetizer arrived, I knew that I would never make it to the chocolate mousse dessert.  While today I would kill to crunch on a crisp aspargus spear, on Saturday night I relegated all the delicious, artfully prepared food to a doggy bag. 

Now that the gluttony has ended, I offer a recipe for all those embarking on a weekend of greedy eating.  Healthful yet quite tasty, this granola provides a good start to any day. 

Cranberry-Raisin Granola or “Granola for the Gluttonous”

2 ½ c. rolled oats
½ c. wheat germ
½ c. flaxseed meal
1 c. chopped almond slivers
honey
½ c. raisins
½ c. cranberries (dried)

Preheat the oven to 300˚ Fahrenheit.  Toast the rolled oats on a large baking sheet for 10 minutes.  Increase the oven temperature to 325˚ Fahrenheit.  Add the wheat germ, flaxseed meal and almonds to the oats and toss together.  Bake until “toasty” looking, at least 10 minutes.
        
Drizzle honey over the mix, return the pan to oven and toast for slightly longer.
        
Remove the pan and add raisins and cranberries. Mix to combine. Pat down the granola and pour more honey over the mix. Allow to cool then break up and store in an airtight container.  Keeps for about 2 weeks.

     

In and around Rhinebeck, New York

At Clinton Vineyards in the spring

Along with dining out, I do a fair amount of “wining out” while staying in Rhinebeck.  The Hudson Valley has a wealth of small vineyards and wineries — 19 in all — that offer tastings and tours.  I’m partial to the champagne and rural atmosphere of Clinton Vineyards in Clinton Corners but I have also ventured out to visit others on the Hudson Valley Wine Trail, including Allison Wines and Vineyards in Red Hook and Royal Kedem Winery in Milton. 

Downtown Rhinebeck at dusk

In addition to the wineries I have gotten my wine fix at the two wine and spirits shops in downtown Rhinebeck.  For a more temperate time I browse the aisles of Hudson Valley Footwear, Rhinebeck Department Store, Home Remedies gifts and furnishings, Hammertown home furnishings, Oblong Books and MusicCabin Fever Outfitters and Paper Trail stationery store.  Reminiscent of an old five and dime, A.L. Stickel Variety Store on East Market is always a must-stop shop. 

Along with traditional retail stores Rhinebeck boasts of several antiques dealers located within walking distance of one another.  Behind the Beekman Arms sits a red barn housing the two-story Beekman Antique Market.  Across from the Inn on Mill Street Asher House Antiques specializes in imported antiques. Opposite the Beekman on West Market Street Portly Pug Antiques carries art, jewelry, china and other antiquities.   

Dogma 95 photography outside the Vanderbilt Mansion, Hyde Park

Sick of shopping, I often opt for an afternoon of mansion hopping.  Within a 25-mile radius I can tour the Vanderbilt Mansion in Hyde Park, landscape painter Frederick Edwin Church’s Persian-style Olana near Hudson, the Greek Revival Mills Mansion in Staatsburgh and the 19th century Montgomery Place, adjacent to Bard College in Annandale-on-the-Hudson.  I can also just stay in Rhinebeck and walk around Wilderstein, a Queen Anne-style estate owned by the cousin and confidant of Franklin D. Roosevelt, Margaret Suckley.

When I’m in Rhinebeck, I’m in the middle of Roosevelt country.  Eleanor Roosevelt’s retreat and permanent home after her husband’s death, Val-Kill, is located in Hyde Park as are FDR’s home of Springwood and the FDR Presidential Museum and Library.  Top Cottage, where Roosevelt entertained world leaders, can also be found here.

Upstate Films, Rhinebeck 

The fun doesn’t end with the Roosevelts.  In Hyde Park the Culinary Institute of America gives year-round cooking classes to food enthusiasts.  In warmer months the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome in Rhinebeck offers air shows, biplane rides and a museum filled with antique cars and planes.  At Upstate Films art and independent movies reign.  So many fun activities.  Is it any wonder why I love Rhinebeck and the surrounding region?