Month: April 2009

Ireland's Windy West Coast

Returning to a holiday spot does have its perks.  Since Sean and I had hit most of the major sites — Newgrange, Cliffs of Moher, Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, Blarney Castle and Belfast, Dunluce Castle and the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland — previously, we opted to explore the less visited but no less beautiful attractions of the Republic’s west coast.  Smart move!  This region has it all — majestic mountain ranges, crystal clear lakes, loads of grazing sheep, quaint villages, good restaurants and a wealth of historic sites. Portumna Castle – Built in the 16th century, Portumna Castle was left in ruins after an 1826 fire.  Restoration work began 30 years ago and continues to this day.  Beautiful setting.  Bad camera karma.  Here my latest Nikon, the D200, breathed its last breath.  What is it about Ireland and my cameras? Galway — Possessing few historic sites, this medieval, coastal, Gaelic-speaking city may not be the most obvious destination.  However, fresh seafood, excellent pubs and a vibrant downtown scene make Galway a perfect stopping …

Man (and Woman) of Aran

After renting a spiffy black Corsa, Sean and I set off for the Republic of Ireland’s west coast and the Aran Islands.   There we caught a stomach churning, 50-minute ferry to Inishmore, the largest of the three islands.  Home to those lovely Irish, wool, knitted sweaters and to such movies as “Man of Aran,” Inishmore is likewise renowned for its rugged landscape, blustery winds and rocks, rocks and more rocks. While most tourists opt to take a tour bus, hop a ride on a horse cart or rent a bike to see the island, we decided to hike.  Little did I know that the hike would be ALL uphill.   Huff.  Puff.  Huff. Puff.  Why is it that I never can find a taxi when I need one? Our destination was Dun Aenghus, a semi-circular, prehistoric fort perched precariously on the edge of a 90-meter cliff.  This was only one of several prehistoric sites on Inishmore but, as the others were even further away, Dun Aenghus was where we went.  Fortunately, Dun Aenghus is …

Dublin Days

A few weeks ago Sean and I decided to revisit Ireland.  Cheap airfare and the desire to relax in friendly, familiar environs made this country the obvious vacation choice.   So, setting aside more exotic locals, we hopped a flight to Dublin on Easter Sunday and kicked off our first full-fledged holiday of 2009. As anyone who has traveled with me can attest, no trip is complete without several nerdy and culinary activities.  In Dublin the nerdiness comes partly in the form of a pilgrimage to Ireland’s largest bookshop, Hodges Figgis on Dawson Street.  Opened in 1786, the four-story store carries over 60,000 books.  As if I need another book!  That doesn’t stop me from browsing the shelves at Hodges Figgis or at other charming, well-stocked shops such as The Winding Stair near the Haypenny Bridge or even the chain Waterstones, right across from Hodges Figgis. The fun doesn’t end there.  Oh no.  Along with bookstores I have to check out the city’s museum offerings.  This time Sean and I revisited the National Gallery of Ireland where last year I smashed my Nikon N80, bringing an end to my film SLR days.  We …

Joi de Vivre in New Orleans

No matter how many times I travel to New Orleans, I remain as in love with this city as I was the very first time.  So many beautiful sites.  So much wonderful food, music and drink.  Is it any wonder why I return again and again to the Crescent City? Every trip there is different.   One time I might roam around the museums, taking in the Cabildo, Ogden Museum of Southern Art or New Orleans Museum of Art.   Another time it might be a trip to the Audubon Zoo, a plantation tour or boat ride through the swamps.  Then there are the seasonal events such as Mardi Gras, the St. Patrick’s Day Parade and Jazz Fest.  All good stuff.    On the most recent journey I had the luxury of hanging out with a New Orleanian, my husband’s cousin Mike.  Thanks to him, I could experience life as a local as well as revisit some favorite tourist spots.  Beignets from Cafe du Monde — They’re a New Orleans institution and a must-have on any trip here.  Soft, warm and blanketed in powdered sugar, these French delicacies hooked …

Soup Up

Why, oh why, do I love soup?  Is it because it comes in so many forms and from so many different cuisines?  Maybe it’s the versatility; almost any food that you can plunk into a pot can be made into soup. Chicken, clams, lobster, yogurt, garlic, corn, potato, tomato, melon . . .. Then again, it could simply be because I’m too lazy to chew solids.   Nah!  Can’t be that!  Although it’s been served since roughly 6000 B.C., “soup” first entered the English lexicon in the 17th century.  Derived from the French word ‘soupe,’ it initially referred to broth poured over bread.  The dish quickly evolved into a liquid consumed on its own, without the sodden hunk of bread.  Later it came to include not only consommes but also bisques and meat- and vegetable-laden fare.    Because heartier soups often appeared as the sole dinner offering in poor, rural areas, many deemed them to be peasant food.   Even today people frequently think of soup not as a meal in itself but as accompaniment – “soup and salad” – or as the first course.   Yet, these thicker …