Month: August 2011

As Easy As . . .

If you think back to early last winter, you may remember all the fuss about how 2011 would be the year of the pie. Rachel Ray predicted it. Newspapers and cooking magazines touted it. Even I wrote an article about how pie would usurp the cupcake and steal the title of ‘America’s favorite sweet.’ Although the hype over pie has subsided, my interest in it hasn’t. This summer I just keep baking it and baking it. In fact, as I type this, I have a homemade lemon meringue pie cooling on the counter behind me. It may not be the year of the pie but it’s definitely my summer of pie. While my obsession is relatively new, the dish itself is quite old. Historians believe that the ancient Egyptians created the first pie. However, they give the ancient Romans credit for the first published recipe. This was for a rye-crusted goat cheese and honey pie. In his weighty and invaluable encyclopedia, The Oxford Companion to Food (Oxford University Press, 2006), the late writer Alan Davidson …

Jansson’s Surprising Temptation

As of late I’ve been up to my whisk in work. That won’t stop me, though, from passing along a good recipe. This time it’s for a Swedish specialty known as Jansson’s Temptation. Featuring anchovies fillets and sliced potatoes, this casserole has become a surprise hit in my household. Usually anchovies are a hard sell but, when paired with potatoes, sautéed onions and a bit of cream, they’re an absolute delight to eat. Jansson’s Temptation’s exact origins remain a mystery. Some historians attribute the dish to a 19th century Swedish religious reformer who loved anchovies, onions and spuds. Others point to an early 20th century Stockholm hostess who created the entrée for a dinner party. She reputedly dubbed the invention “Jansson’s Temptation” in honor of a 1928 film of the same name. No matter how it got its start, it continues to be a beloved staple of Swedish cuisine. In Sweden the casserole often pops up at smorgasbords, those buffet-style meals featuring hot and cold foods. In my house it serves as a warm and …

Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts

I grew up with a parent who loathed Martha Stewart. Mention her name and my dad would become apoplectic. “That woman! She’s . . .!” I never understood it. After all, it was my mother, not he, who cooked the family meals and did our decorating. Who knows? Maybe he envied folks who ate bouillabaisse and coq au vin at a table adorned with homemade pine cone centerpieces and dried wild flower napkin rings. Whatever the cause, I knew that bringing a Martha Stewart cookbook or magazine into the house was tantamount to treason. That I’m a fan of one of her cookbooks, well, I can imagine what he’d say – Judas! Yet, I have to admit that I like her latest offering, Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts. Compiled by the editors of Martha Stewart Living, Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts provides 150 simple to mildly difficult recipes for pies and tarts. Whether I’m pressed for time or able to spend a few hours in the kitchen, this book has an array of sweet and …

It’s Tomato Time Again!

As tomato season rolls around again, I thought that I’d share some wisdom about tomatoes from last summer. Yes, in case you haven’t noticed, it’s tomato time, the period from July to October where locally grown, vine-ripened tomatoes hit their prime. For those who’d happily chomp on this produce day in and day out, it’s a highly anticipated event. For those like me who don’t share this passion, it means confronting the quandary of what to do with all those tomatoes. A well-meaning friend once suggested that I try canning them. After all, who doesn’t love home preserving? Apparently me. After one steamy, day-long canning class I learned that, like oil and water, canning and Kathy do not mix. After ruling out canning, I considered other options, including drying tomatoes in a food dehydrator. While pleasant tasting, dried tomatoes lacked the spark of their fresh, juicy brethren. With that in mind I scratched dehydrating from my list. In the end I’ve chosen either to cook or serve tomatoes raw in an endless parade of recipes. …

Telepan – NY, NY

I usually don’t ransack my bank account in order to eat well in NY. However, on nights when I want a meal that will knock socks off, I dig out my debit card and head on over to Chef Bill Telepan’s eponymous restaurant, Telepan. Located on Manhattan’s Upper West Side and, happily, a short walk from my apartment, Telepan serves exceptional seasonal, New American cuisine in a low key but smart former townhouse. Much has been made of Telepan’s dedication to Greenmarket cooking. Granted, it’s not a new concept but it is one of which he is a master. Each dish shines with its own well-paired, fresh, seasonal ingredients. Take, for instance, my favorite Telepan appetizer — sunny-side egg with fried green tomato, cloth bound cheddar and spring onion. Just typing that description makes me crave this summery starter. Then there are the ricotta and herb ravioli with roasted tomato, gazpacho salad, and house-smoked brook trout with corn blini. All showcase seasonal ingredients. All are delicious. The gastronomical delights don’t end with hors d’oeuvres. An …

Floundering

In the name of research I went flounder fishing this week. Prior to this trip, the only fish that I had ever caught was an Allegheny River suckerfish. Since I’m working on a book about seafood, it seemed like the ideal time to hit the water and land a far more delectable fish. Found in the Atlantic Ocean, flounder is, as you probably can tell from the above photo, a flatfish. It’s related to sole, dab and plaice. Like all flatfish, it swims on its side and has eyes situated on one side of its head. Camouflaged by its coloring, flounder buries itself in the sand to hide from predators. Unfortunately, this trick doesn’t thwart commercial fishermen who catch great numbers of it with bottom trawls. As a result of this fishing practice, the flounder population has dwindled, leaving novices like me as well as skilled amateurs with meager catches. In 7 1/2 hours I caught three flounder, two of which were undersized and had to be tossed back into the ocean. I couldn’t chalk …