Month: May 2009

Molten Chocolate Lava Land

I know that many will disagree but, for me, this decade will go down in history as the ten long years of molten chocolate lava cakes.  My first experience with them came not in a restaurant but in my own kitchen.  Armed with Nigella Lawson’s classic cookbook “How to Eat” (Wiley, 2000), I set out to create her gooey chocolate puddings.  These wonderfully decadent treats, I later came to learn, are also known by such monikers as molten chocolate cakes, chocolate lava cakes, and chocolate cakes with warm ganache centers.  Same dessert.  Countless names. Check out the dessert menu at any upscale and/or New American restaurant and I bet that you will spot this sweet. Every 21st century chef seems to have fallen for this moist and oozing chocolate specialty.   Although the recipe is quite simple, many mess up the molten chocolate lava cake (MCLC). Usually the chef has baked the pudding for far too long. Insert your fork into one of these overcooked MCLC’s and you’ll not see that glorious stream of steaming chocolate cascade onto your plate.  Instead you’ll have a forkful of dry chocolate cake.  To …

Beignet v. Funnel Cake – Let the Games Begin

Ah, beignets and funnel cakes.  I can’t think of two more delectable, fried, sugar-coated snacks.  After years of gorging on beignets each time that I visit New Orleans and of living next to Apple Frankie, the undisputed “funnel cake king,” I consider myself somewhat of an expert on the two.  So, with a nod to the aforementioned A. Frankie, I shall attempt to determine, once and for all, which is truly the best greasy sweet.  Although I flew back from New Orleans over a month ago, beignets linger on my palate and mind.  Blanketed with powdered sugar, these pillows of dough are served hot and as a trio at the Crescent City landmark Cafe du Monde.  Light and oh-so sweet, they are a heavenly treat.  To balance out the avalanche of sugar hitting my bloodstream and clothes, I pair beignets with a decaf, chicory-laced cafe au lait and plenty of napkins.   While I associate beignets with New Orleans, they actually originated in France.  Made from the delicate, spongy pâte à choux, these airy, square pastries are found throughout the country.  They likewise pop up in such French-influenced regions as Quebec and, of course, …

It's Al Fresco Dining Time!

On the East Coast we’re in the middle of a spring heat wave.  Sunshine.  Ninety degrees.  Pleasant breeze.  All this beautiful weather spurs me to do one thing — drag my deathly pale, vitamin-D deprived body outside to dine al fresco. Italian for “fresh” or “open air,” al fresco refers quite simply to eating outdoors.  At one time I thought that this was ridiculous.  Who wants to swat away flies and bees, listen to irksome traffic and breath in pungent car exhaust as she eats?   As it turns out, I do.   As soon as the thermometer tops 55 and restaurants start erecting those towering, tree-like space heaters, I’m sliding into a wrought iron cafe chair and dining in the bracing spring air. Why the radical change of heart?  After a cold, dark winter spent indoors I no longer can bear to waste a minute of sunlight.  Pass me my sunglasses and I’ll be off to bask in the sun and nosh on refreshing, seasonal fare.  No gazpacho or vichyssoise on the menu?  No problem.  Although lighter dishes seem more appropriate for an al fresco atmosphere, I’m …