Gnawed your fingernails to the nubs over worries about the economy, work, health problems or those of your family, friends and pets? Oh, why not blow a few bucks and escape to New York’s Hudson Valley for the weekend? The visit will do nothing to replenish your dwindling bank account but it will undoubtedly provide some fun in the cold, winter sun.
Shortly before Christmas Sean and I returned to our favorite Hudson Valley town of Rhinebeck. Twenty minutes north of FDR’s home and the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, Rhinebeck offers everything that we crave in a get-away destination. Historic sites. Plethora of art, antiques and independently owned shops. Excellent restaurants. Independent movie theater. Wineries. Farmer’s markets. All within walking distance of our lodging.
In terms of lodging, if you want to walk downtown as I always do, you’ll end up at either the Veranda House B&B or the Beekman Arms and Delamater Inn. Opened in 1766, the Beekman is listed in the Historic Hotels of America and boasts of being America’s oldest operating inn.
If it’s history you crave, you may experience the 70s — 1970’s — at the Beekman; many of the 73 rooms appear as though they haven’t been renovated since then. Luckily, since my last stay, the hotel had hired someone to paint the walls in and expose the lovely wood floors in some of the Delamater’s rooms. As a result, our room looked cheery and bright.
Outside of town, I love the 1745 Olde Rhinebeck Inn and Le Petit Chateau Inn, which is located a few miles from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. With both I can enjoy beautiful surroundings, well-appointed rooms and hot, gourmet breakfasts. Couldn’t dream of anything better, except, of course, to be able to walk into town.
Perhaps it’s because of the classes that I’ve taken and meals that I’ve eaten there or the fact that so many local restaurants are owned, operated and staffed by Culinary Institute grads but say “Hudson Valley” and I immediately think “CIA.” The presence of America’s top culinary school has resulted in a great cookware shop, Warren Kitchen and Cutlery in Rhinebeck, and a wealth of outstanding restaurants.
On campus Sean and I have feasted on local, regional cuisine at American Bounty. For classic French food we’ve dined at Escoffier. Hankering quick, casual food, we have turned to the Apple Pie Bakery Cafe. I’ve yet to make it to St. Andrews Cafe or the Italian Ristorante Caterina De’ Medici but I suspect that their meals are just as delicious.
Back in Rhinebeck we have a variety of cuisines from which to choose including French at Le Petit Bistro , Italian at Gigi Trattoria, New American in the former, 19th century Baptist church Terrapin, French-American at Calico, Mediterranean at Arielle and Latin at Sabroso. While I won’t claim a favorite, I do make a point to stop by Gigi’s for the vegetarian minestrone, Terrapin for portobello mushroom steaks and Sabroso for tapas.
Craving appetizers or a drink, I might pop into Foster’s Coach House, the Beekman Tavern, the Firebird Lounge (for both drinks, food and pool) or Starr Place. When I need a bagel fix, I head to Rhinebeck Bagels. Pastries or diner fare? For the former I drop by Bread Alone. For the latter it’s Pete’s Famous, which has locations in both Rhinebeck and Hyde Park.
Fine food isn’t the only thing on offer in Rhinebeck but for now the other attractions will have to wait.