All posts filed under: Sides and Breads

Make It Quick . . . Banana Bread!

Thanks to a dozen brown bananas over-ripening on my kitchen counter, I spent a good chunk of last weekend making loaf after loaf of banana bread. I could just as easily have baked dozens of banana muffins or even a few coffeecakes. They all fall into the same category of baked goods known as quick breads. As their name indicates, quick breads are made quickly. Unlike with white, whole wheat, rye and other yeast breads, I don’t while away hours letting the dough rise. Likewise, I don’t spend precious time kneading it. I simply mix the ingredients together, pour the batter into a greased pan and allow the loaf to bake. The absence of yeast is what gives quick breads their short prep time. A living organism, yeast requires a draft-free, warm environment of between 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It also needs moisture and food, such as sugar and starch, to grow. As it grows, it gives off carbon dioxide, which causes the dough to rise. The first rise can take anywhere from one …

Chickpeas!

A few years ago I fell madly in love with a little falafel place in the East Village called Chickpea. Truthfully, it may have been the name rather than the food that drew me back again and again. I can’t help it. I absolutely adore those plump, firm, nutty legumes known as chickpeas. An essential ingredient in Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Indian cuisines, the chickpea has existed since around 8,000 B.C. While Indians embraced it as early as 4,500 B.C., ancient Romans wrote it off as mere peasant food. Yet, this flavorful, protein-rich gem appeared in many early Mediterranean recipes, including pasta and chickpeas. In India chickpeas have long starred in fragrant dals and curries and as spiced snacks. When finely milled into a flour, called besan or gram flour, they have formed the batter for such fried favorites as pakoras, or fritters, and aloo bonda. In North Africa and the Middle East chickpeas serve as the basis for such classics as hummus and falafel. They also pop up in couscous dishes and in spicy …

Stir the Pot

“Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the cornmeal thickens, about 30 to 45 minutes.” Those instructions have daunted countless would-be polenta makers, including me. Who wants to stand over a steaming pot for 45 minutes, stirring cornmeal non-stop? No doubt anyone who has discovered the tastiness and versatility of this savory comfort food would, that’s who. A staple of Northern Italian cuisine, modern polenta dates back to the mid 17th century. It was during this time that the Venetians introduced American corn to the region. Prior to the 1600s a variation of polenta was reputedly made using chestnut flour while another version may have existed that employed barley. Cooked in an unlined copper kettle, the combination of yellow cornmeal, or ground corn, and water was ceaselessly stirred until a thick mush formed. To test for doneness, the cook would insert her wooden spoon in the center of the mixture. If the spoon stood up on its own, without falling over or shifting its position, the polenta was done. Once finished, the polenta was either …

Ultimate Comfort and Cold Weather Food

When life gets tough and leaves me longing for a sense of security, I escape to my kitchen and cook one of my favorite comfort foods: creamy macaroni and cheese. Long considered a Depression era food, macaroni and cheese actually dates back to the late 18th century. Our third president, Thomas Jefferson, is credited with introducing the dish to America. The story goes that Jefferson returned from a trip to Italy with a pasta maker and recipe for macaroni coated with cheese. Originally made with equal amounts of grated Parmesan and butter, it would later feature the standard cheddar and bechamel sauce. Reputedly Jefferson’s favorite meal, this casserole was served at Monticello, his Virginia home, and also at parties in Washington. Although considered a luxury item reserved for the rich, macaroni and cheese did appear in Mary Randolph’s The Virginia Housewife in 1824. Her housekeeping and cookery book instructed readers to ‘boil the macaroni with milk and water.’ After cooking and draining the macaroni, they should then place it in a bowl and cover the …

Wild, Wild Rice

To friends who dislike or have grown tired of white rice, I always suggest that they give wild rice a try.  With its firm texture, nutty flavor and earthy appearance this grain adds a little excitement to the staid rice family.  High in dietary fiber and protein, it likewise offers a nutritional boost absent from milled, nutrient-depleted white rice.  If disillusioned rice eaters take into account wild rice’s complex taste and texture and dietary benefits, they may give this hearty food a chance. When these winning aspects don’t sway them, I point out that wild rice falls into the category of affordable gourmet goods.  With wild rice they can splash out on an exotic dish without emptying their wallets.  The same cannot be said for other epicurean delights such as white truffles, a bottle of good, aged balsamic vinegar or wheel of aged Manchego cheese. Should my finicky friends remain unconvinced, I simply present them with one of a multitude of savory recipes.  One bite of wild rice sauteed with cremini mushrooms, simmered with onions, …

Home Cooked Comfort

Day after day I read the newspaper, listen to NPR and watch the news and feel surprisingly fortunate.  Granted, most of the publications for which I write have declared bankruptcy and my monthly financial statements have become the butt of sad jokes.  Yet, to paraphrase the Republican party of the 1920’s, I still have ‘a chicken in the pot and a car in the backyard, to boot. ‘   Where I notice this economic downturn is in the kitchen.  It’s not how often I cook but what I cook that differs.  Gone are the big, time consuming dinners featuring exotic ingredients found only at gourmet and specialty shops.  Instead I now make simpler, more comforting fare.    One such heartening meal is ratatouille.  After yet another day of dire news I can think of nothing more nurturing than tucking into a warm bowl of this garlic-scented, vegetable-rich, Provencal stew.  With eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers and hints of basil, oregano and thyme, it gives me a much needed lift when I’m down. Who doesn’t feel bolstered by a good, hot soup?  I know that I do.  Pumpkin, chicken with orzo, vegetarian black bean, potato leek, …

Panettone & Other Holiday Breads

In early October, when most people hadn’t even started thinking about Halloween, I sat in my kitchen, mounds of cookbooks spread out before me, mulling over Christmas recipes.  That’s the thing about food writing.  You never work within the season.  In fall I’m researching summer sorbets.  In spring I could be scouring upscale markets in search of an out-of-season persimmon.  A quirky apsect of the field but one that leaves me well-prepared for every season and event. What I learned on those warm, fall afternoons is that every country seems to possess a Christmas bread.  In Germany it’s dried fruit and nut-studded stollen.  Dusted with powdered sugar or iced with a powdered sugar frosting, stollen is a delectable snack, dessert or breakfast sweet.   Forget Christmas.  I could eat this every day of the week. The same holds true for panettone.  Originating in Milan, panettone is served year-round at special occasions.  With its rich, cake-like dough and tall, mushroom-like shape, it’s a stunner in both taste and appearance.  Traditionally, raisins, candied citron and citrus zest fill out the bread but my concoction …