All posts filed under: Food Musings

slice of mince pice

Mince Pie Like Mom Didn’t Make

Until my late 20s, I was a seasonal binger of mince pies. Every November the warm scents of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and allspice would fill my parents’ kitchen, reminding me that mince pie time had arrived. My mother, who generally despised cooking, had a longstanding tradition of baking this British treat at Thanksgiving and Christmas. Like her annual walnut stollen, this pie was something that she both enjoyed and excelled at making. Also like her stollen, it’s a baked good with which I’ve tinkered, updating it for the 21st century. History of mince pie In England mince or mincemeat pie, as my mother and scores of others called it, is a Christmas speciality. Featuring a mixture of chopped apples, raisins, sultanas, currants, spices, lemon juice and brandy, this pie is moist, aromatic and filling. Historically, its heartiness came, in part, from the presence of minced beef or liver. Hence the name “mincemeat.” By the 19th century the meat had been replaced by the hard fat known as suet. This gave the pie a rich flavor …

Eton Mess

Go ahead. Make a mess, an Eton Mess!

When I first heard the term Eton Mess, I imagined a scandal or fiasco, something, well, messy. What I didn’t think of was a luscious British dessert that you neatly eat with a spoon. Yet, that is exactly what a mess is. Funny name. Funnier origins. How this sweet got its unusual name is the stuff of legends. It all began in the 19th century, at a boys’ boarding school in Southeast England, with a clumsy cook who had questionable views about sanitation . . .. Watch the video below to learn more. Eating local Because I have this obsession with consuming signature foods in their native lands–remember last month’s post about Russian herring under a fur coat?– I have to eat at least one Eton Mess while in England. Sure, I could make this simple dessert at home. In fact, I often do. Yet, there is something special about trying a dish in its country of origin where it’s steeped in local ingredients and folklore. England’s spectacular Eton Mess is no different. Ingredients for …

herring under a fur coat dish

Herring under a Fur Coat

I am a bit obsessed with eating famous dishes in their countries of origin so it’s no surprise that, while visiting St. Petersburg this summer, I had to order Herring under a Fur Coat. This Russian specialty features layers of sour cream, grated carrots, beets, potatoes and hard-boiled eggs blanketing herring fillets. In Russia it’s called shuba or seledka pod shuboi, which roughly translates to Herring under a Fur Coat. In my world it means a moist, flavorful and absolutely delicious meal. Traditionally, Russians eat Herring under a Fur Coat at New Year’s Eve gatherings. It’s a staple of the holiday buffet table and, as I experienced, a common offering in restaurants. Savory and quite filling, it can serve as a starter, salad or entree. I had it for lunch as well as dinner and managed to eat it every day during my all-too-brief, 72-hour stay. That’s how extraordinary this dish is. Fresh herring fillets Living on the U.S. East Coast, I can access herring fairly easily. Usually, I buy it in pickled and smoked …

big bowl of Moroccan couscous salad

Inspired by travels in Morocco, it’s Moroccan Couscous Salad

A food copy editor once advised me not to mention travel so much in my work. It made me, in her words, “sound like a spy.” I had to chuckle because, with my voluminous, flame-colored hair, perpetual, toothy smile and inability to keep a poker face, I would be the world’s most recognizable spy. Because travel informs so much of my writing and cooking, I laugh about this, too. How could I not mention sunny Morocco when discussing Moroccan couscous salad? I couldn’t. Morocco’s national dish That brings me to this month’s offering, Moroccan couscous salad. Once the national dish of Morocco, couscous consists of tiny, steamed balls of semolina. To prepare this food, Moroccan cooks may use a couscousiere, which resembles an oversized double boiler. Desiring authenticity, I had picked up one of these big pots at a souk in Marrakech. After dragging it over the Atlas Mountains, to the Western Sahara and back to Kennedy Airport, I promptly shoved the aluminum contraption into a closet. Unfortunately for my couscousiere, I had found instant …

mushroom, pea, onion stir fry

Misfits Market Mushroom-Pea Stir Fry

Timing really is everything. With a spouse who had switched to a vegetable-based diet and my own ongoing concerns about food waste I had become intrigued by the “ugly produce” delivery service Misfits Market. Whether online or walking down the street, I saw their name and boxes of imperfect fruits and vegetables everywhere. As a result, when a PR rep reached out and asked if I would be interested in covering Misfits Market, I took an extremely rare leap and said, “I might. Go ahead and send a sample box of produce.” What’s ugly produce? Ever come across a curled bell pepper, forked carrot or twisted parsnip at a chain supermarket? Probably not. These stores tend to focus on uniform, blemish-free foods. However, if you frequent farm stands and farmers’ markets and seek out organic, non-GMO goods, you’ve probably seen misshapen produce. Odd in appearance, these wholesome veggies and fruits usually are sold at reduced prices, that is, if they even make it to markets. Because they’re not as pretty and profitable as their perfect …

What Would Tea Be without Scones?

Scones. They’re one of the most British of all British dishes and something I’ve been baking for years. What can I say? I’m an Anglophile who spent her childhood immersed in the British punk and new wave scene, BBC television and the works of every 19th and 20th century British writer that the New Castle Public Library carried. When asked what I wanted as a high school graduation gift, I didn’t beg for a car or a trip to the beach with friends. I wanted a ticket to London and a pair of black Dr. Martens. (I instead got luggage, which I never once used.) Ten years later I finally made it to England, bought my black, 1461 Docs and had my first English tea with scones and clotted cream. That initial tea hooked me on those luscious, little biscuits, and I’ve been making variations of them ever since. Origin of Scones The word “scone” has been around since the 16th century and reputedly comes from the Scottish “sconbrot.” It refers to a soft, flat, …

grilling scallops in their shells

9 Tools for Grilling Seafood

Whether you’re a newcomer to or longstanding fan of seafood, the thought of grilling fish and shellfish can be intimidating. I used to worry about what would happen after I placed a delicate piece of fish onto a searing hot grill. I might cook it too long or not long enough. If I did grill it correctly, the fish might stick to or fall through the grate. Even if the fish made it safely to the dinner table, it could end up as dry and flavorless as parchment paper. Rather than avoid grilling seafood, I selected several tools to ease my concerns and enhance my grilling techniques. With the exception of the grill itself, none were costly. Yet, all helped to make my grilled shrimp, clams, salmon, tuna and other fish look and taste delicious. The Tools Grill or grill pan – If you already own a grill, you can skip this suggestion. If you don’t have one, you should decide whether you want to cook with gas, charcoal or electricity. Once you’ve determined your …

Saffron and Cinnamon-Scented Monkfish Kebabs

After reading an article about the possible demise of Kashmiri saffron, I started to think of the dishes that I would miss if this earthy, orange-red spice disappeared forever. The Provencal fish stew bouillabaisse, Spanish paella, South Asian biryani, Milanese risotto and currant-studded saffron buns would be far less flavorful and satisfying without it. The same holds true for a recipe featured in my seafood cookbook “Fish Market,” saffron and cinnamon-scented monkfish kebabs. What is saffron? Saffron comes from the perennial crocus plant. Each plant produces small, purple flowers with three delicate, reddish strands at their centers. Known in the plant world as stigmas and styles, these colorful threads are saffron. Because they are fragile, these filaments must be picked by hand and then dried. Unfortunately, you can’t go outside and collect a few crocuses to flavor your cooking. The saffron-yielding species, Crocus sativus, blooms in the fall in such regions as East Asia, the Mediterranean and Iran. Plus, you would have to pluck roughly 14,000 flowers to produce one ounce of dried saffron. Hence …

mushroom soup, beer and potato pancakes

Creamy, No-Cream Mushroom Soup

This past December marked the four-year anniversary of almost moving to Prague, Czechia, or, as it was called then, the Czech Republic. As someone who has always wanted to live abroad, I was set for this new adventure. I’d figured out where I’d get my morning coffee, buy English-language books and learn how to understand, if not master, the Czech language. In a land where pork and potato dishes reigned, I even knew what I’d cook and eat. It wouldn’t be klobása (kielbasa), gulas (pork or beef stew) or schnitzel. Instead I’d make the country’s many versions of creamy mushroom soup. Mushrooms everwhere From late spring to early fall Czechs, like other Central Europeans, forage for wild mushrooms. Once collected and cleaned, the mushrooms might be breaded and fried, made into a pudding, added to scrambled eggs, sautéed or pickled. They may star in the entrée mushroom loaf, in a sandwich, as a salad or sauce or in a hearty soup. Similar to the ever-present potatoes and dumplings, mushrooms make their way into most meals. …

chocolate cake

Chocolate Cake for One or a Ton

I know it’s not a terribly seasonal offering but sometimes you just need a little, or a lot of, chocolate cake. Aren’t brimming with holiday joy? Bake yourself a chocolate cake, frost that beauty and then grab a fork and dig in! Feeling jolly but also a bit freaked out by the crowd coming over for Christmas dinner? Make a chocolate cake for your crew. There is no mood that can’t be improved by sweet, velvety, cocoa-laced cake. As someone who lost loved ones during the holiday season, I understand all too well how dreary this period of traditions and family-focused festivities can seem. I also know how much cheerier you can feel once you’ve created a new holiday ritual and indulged in a decadent, smile-inducing, chocolate treat. After all, scientific studies indicate that cocoa and dark chocolate can improve mood and boost your memory, cognition and immune system. That’s great news! Snowflake Chocolate Cake contains both cocoa and dark chocolate. Think of how fabulous you and your guests will feel after noshing on the …