All posts filed under: Cookbook Reviews

My Sweet Mexico

If I base my view of Mexican sweets on what street carts and restaurants serve, I’d wrongly think that the best this country has to offer are sugar-topped churros, eggy flans and the ubiquitous fried ice cream. Thanks to pastry chef Fany Gerson’s “My Sweet Mexico” (Ten Speed Press, 2010), I know that our neighbors to the south enjoy an array of delectable confections. With recipes for and histories of pastries, breads, desserts and drinks Gerson guides me through the colorful world of Mexican sweets. Although “My Sweet Mexico” landed in bookstores – and on my bookshelf – a few weeks ago, I’ve already found several new, favorite recipes. Convent cookies are among them. Laced with ground, caramelized almonds, these cookies are lovely with afternoon coffee or tea. Likewise, I adore “polvorones.” Commonly known as Mexican wedding cookies, these delicate, powdered sugar-coated treats are perfect for any occasion. I’m similarly smitten with “aceite de vainilla” or vanilla cordial. An uncomplicated yet ambrosial beverage, vanilla cordial consists of dried vanilla beans, simple syrup and vodka or …

The Geometry of Pasta

Last week I looked at an older, beloved cookbook, “How to Eat.” This week I explore what seems destined to become a new favorite. Co-created by critically acclaimed chef Jacob Kenedy and graphic designer Caz Hildebrand, “The Geometry of Pasta” (Quirk Books, 2010) delves into the history of pasta shapes and what sauces compliment each shape. Curious about why fusilli looks like a corkscrew or what sauce goes well with that cute, pinwheel-shaped pasta? Through black and white drawings by Hildebrand and over 100 recipes by Kenedy I’ve learned those answers – and more – in this engaging cookbook. Although I’ve yet to cook my way through all of “The Geometry of Pasta,” I have found quite a few culinary gems. Take, for instance, orecchiette con cime i rappa or orecchiette broccoli rabe. Featuring sliced garlic, crushed red pepper flakes, broccoli rabe and, of course, “little ears” of orecchiette, this light, olive oil-dressed dish works perfectly as a generous meal for two or side for four to six. Spaghetti alla puttanesca likewise won me over …

How to Eat

Over the years of writing about food I have amassed a ridiculous number of cookbooks. Some I refer to several times a week. Others I’ve opened just once. With so many diverse recipe collections right at my fingertips it seems a crime not to share the outstanding ones with you. So, starting this week and hopefully every Tuesday onward, I’ll crack open some longtime favorites and recently published gems and offer a brief review. To kick off this cookbook commentary, I’ve pulled out my faded copy of Nigella Lawson’s “How to Eat” (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2000). For close to 10 years “How to Eat” has been my go-to book for creative yet uncomplicated soups, vegetable dishes, entrees and desserts. Featuring the British food writer’s breezy, humorous anecdotes and her well-crafted recipes, this book invariably delivers great meals and lavish praise for the cook. Pick up “How to Eat” and it will fall open to page 175. Printed there in red type is Lawson’s recipe for roast cod with pea puree. I’ve lost track …