Year: 2010

Salty Like the Sea

Published by Kathy Hunt

One of the essential minerals and oldest seasonings has gone gourmet. Forget about the white, fine-grain, mass-produced salt crystals of the past. Chunky sea salts in hues of beige, pink, red and black have taken over kitchens, tabletops and gourmet grocery aisles around the globe. Prized by chefs, connoisseurs and home cooks, they come from France and the Mediterranean coast, from salt pans in Tunisia and Majorca and from countless other sites, including Hawaii, Australia and Bali. In the Mediterranean sea salt is produced by an age-old technique. Here sea water is collected in shallow basins and allowed to evaporate in the sun. As it dries up, salt forms at the base of the pans. There it takes on the color of the clay or other natural materials found on the bottom. The salt at the top remains pure white. In France this delicate salt is known as fleur de sel. Light tasting and quick dissolving, it’s primarily used to finish dishes but it occasionally appears in baked goods. What do cooks do with all …

Joy of Cooking

Published by Kathy Hunt

You only need to glance at my battered copy of “Joy of Cooking” (Scribner, 1997) and you’ll know how much I value this timeless cookbook. Written in 1931 by Irma S. Rombauer, “Joy of Cooking” taught me how to make stocks, dressings and tomato sauces. It showed me how to shuck clams, carve pumpkins and bake a brioche. It even helped me to create an exceptional ratatouille and master homemade crepes. Someday, if I want to curry goat or broil a pigeon, I undoubtedly could do so after consulting this book. It’s that comprehensive. On nights when I’m stumped over what to make for dinner, I start thumbing through “Joy of Cooking.” Revised for the modern cook, it offers a variety of healthful and international recipes including salads, tagines, kebabs and curries. Although I no longer follow it word-for-word, I do use it as the starting point for countless dishes. My cranberry-white chocolate panettone, shepherd’s pie, and Meyer lemon meringue pie were all inspired, in part, by Rombauer, Rombauer Becker, and Becker. Whether you’re a …

“A” Is for . . .

Published by Kathy Hunt

With World Go Vegan Week right around the corner I’ve been thinking quite a bit about animal-free meals. Since my household abhors tofu and seitan, the obvious vegan players are out of the picture for now. Instead I’ll be reaching for such protein-rich foods as beans, lentils and avocados. Native to Central and South America, the creamy, pear-shaped avocado has been cultivated for over 7,000 years. In spite of its long history and popularity the avocado didn’t pop up in North American kitchens until the late 1800’s. Europeans had to wait even longer, until the early 20th century, to enjoy this rich, luscious fruit. All avocados descend from three original types – Mexican, Guatemalan or West Indian. While there are now over 500 varieties, I usually look for a Hass. California’s main avocado crop, Hass possesses an oval shape and pebbly, greenish-black skin that peels easily. It’s in season from early winter to summer. In general, though, avocados are available year-round. Rich in fiber, potassium, protein and “good fats,” the avocado is most often consumed …

My Sweet Mexico

Published by Kathy Hunt

If I base my view of Mexican sweets on what street carts and restaurants serve, I’d wrongly think that the best this country has to offer are sugar-topped churros, eggy flans and the ubiquitous fried ice cream. Thanks to pastry chef Fany Gerson’s “My Sweet Mexico” (Ten Speed Press, 2010), I know that our neighbors to the south enjoy an array of delectable confections. With recipes for and histories of pastries, breads, desserts and drinks Gerson guides me through the colorful world of Mexican sweets. Although “My Sweet Mexico” landed in bookstores – and on my bookshelf – a few weeks ago, I’ve already found several new, favorite recipes. Convent cookies are among them. Laced with ground, caramelized almonds, these cookies are lovely with afternoon coffee or tea. Likewise, I adore “polvorones.” Commonly known as Mexican wedding cookies, these delicate, powdered sugar-coated treats are perfect for any occasion. I’m similarly smitten with “aceite de vainilla” or vanilla cordial. An uncomplicated yet ambrosial beverage, vanilla cordial consists of dried vanilla beans, simple syrup and vodka or …

Pretty as a Persimmon

Published by Kathy Hunt

Sometimes we start off on the wrong foot with food. Such was the case with my husband and the pretty, leaf-topped persimmon. One bite of a firm, unripe persimmon and Sean swore never to touch this fall fruit again. Why such a negative reaction? Unless it’s ripe, this small, plump orb tastes as bitter as a harsh astringent. Persimmons peak in mid-October. By that point they’ve turned a beautiful brilliant orange and taken on a soft texture and honey-apricot flavor. Any picked and eaten before then run the risk of tasting tinny and, in Sean’s case, terrible. Early settlers learned this invaluable lesson about ripeness from Native Americans. They allowed the fruit to ripen fully and fall from the tree before consuming it. Even with this good example some colonists found out the hard way about young persimmons. In the 17th century Captain John Smith noted that ‘if it be not ripe it will draw a mans mouth awrie with much torment . …” Boy, does that sound familiar! A good persimmon requires only a …

The Geometry of Pasta

Published by Kathy Hunt

Last week I looked at an older, beloved cookbook, “How to Eat.” This week I explore what seems destined to become a new favorite. Co-created by critically acclaimed chef Jacob Kenedy and graphic designer Caz Hildebrand, “The Geometry of Pasta” (Quirk Books, 2010) delves into the history of pasta shapes and what sauces compliment each shape. Curious about why fusilli looks like a corkscrew or what sauce goes well with that cute, pinwheel-shaped pasta? Through black and white drawings by Hildebrand and over 100 recipes by Kenedy I’ve learned those answers – and more – in this engaging cookbook. Although I’ve yet to cook my way through all of “The Geometry of Pasta,” I have found quite a few culinary gems. Take, for instance, orecchiette con cime i rappa or orecchiette broccoli rabe. Featuring sliced garlic, crushed red pepper flakes, broccoli rabe and, of course, “little ears” of orecchiette, this light, olive oil-dressed dish works perfectly as a generous meal for two or side for four to six. Spaghetti alla puttanesca likewise won me over …

Apple-licious!

Published by Kathy Hunt

Growing up in a small town in western Pennsylvania, I loved fall. Along with picture-perfect foliage, marching band practices, and Friday night football games I adored all the apples and apple butter, sauce and cider that the season ushered in. While my fruit treats came from the local temple to all-things-apple, Apple Castle, you could find a fresh, crisp, juicy apple virtually everywhere. Although I now live far away from Western Pa., I’m still crazy about fall and, of course, a good apple. Considered the most important fruit in North America and Europe, the apple has been cultivated for at least 3,000 years. Early trees produced hundreds of tiny, sour fruits. These little orbs resembled crabapples and possessed a large core with little flesh. During classical Roman times people discovered that they could produce heartier, tastier and more consistent apples through grafting. To do this, they took cuttings from healthy, productive trees and transplanted them onto sturdy roots. Their horticulture methods worked for today we have close to 8,000 varieties in existence. In the U.S. …

How to Eat

Published by Kathy Hunt

Over the years of writing about food I have amassed a ridiculous number of cookbooks. Some I refer to several times a week. Others I’ve opened just once. With so many diverse recipe collections right at my fingertips it seems a crime not to share the outstanding ones with you. So, starting this week and hopefully every Tuesday onward, I’ll crack open some longtime favorites and recently published gems and offer a brief review. To kick off this cookbook commentary, I’ve pulled out my faded copy of Nigella Lawson’s “How to Eat” (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2000). For close to 10 years “How to Eat” has been my go-to book for creative yet uncomplicated soups, vegetable dishes, entrees and desserts. Featuring the British food writer’s breezy, humorous anecdotes and her well-crafted recipes, this book invariably delivers great meals and lavish praise for the cook. Pick up “How to Eat” and it will fall open to page 175. Printed there in red type is Lawson’s recipe for roast cod with pea puree. I’ve lost track …

Chickpeas!

Published by Kathy Hunt

A few years ago I fell madly in love with a little falafel place in the East Village called Chickpea. Truthfully, it may have been the name rather than the food that drew me back again and again. I can’t help it. I absolutely adore those plump, firm, nutty legumes known as chickpeas. An essential ingredient in Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Indian cuisines, the chickpea has existed since around 8,000 B.C. While Indians embraced it as early as 4,500 B.C., ancient Romans wrote it off as mere peasant food. Yet, this flavorful, protein-rich gem appeared in many early Mediterranean recipes, including pasta and chickpeas. In India chickpeas have long starred in fragrant dals and curries and as spiced snacks. When finely milled into a flour, called besan or gram flour, they have formed the batter for such fried favorites as pakoras, or fritters, and aloo bonda. In North Africa and the Middle East chickpeas serve as the basis for such classics as hummus and falafel. They also pop up in couscous dishes and in spicy …

Beet It

Published by Kathy Hunt

As a kid, I thought that beets were the coolest vegetable on the planet. Round, plump and reddish-purple, they possessed a sweet taste and soft, silky texture that I adored. Sweet AND purple! Who wouldn’t love that quirky vegetable? Today I appreciate these low calorie root veggies not only for their color and taste but also for their versatility. With beets you can cook the leaves as well as the roots. Just steam or saute the greens in garlic and olive oil for a warm salad or side dish. Roast, boil or steam the roots for sides or soups. One vegetable. Multiple recipes and techniques. Cultivated since 300 B.C., beets are descendants of a wild seashore plant known as the sea beet. This plant grows in clumps along the Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines of North Africa and Europe. Unlike its offspring, which can be as small as an orange or as large as a grapefruit, it has a small, skinny root. Thin or fat, beet roots have long been used in salads and soups. Seventeenth …