Year: 2009

Beignet v. Funnel Cake – Let the Games Begin

Ah, beignets and funnel cakes.  I can’t think of two more delectable, fried, sugar-coated snacks.  After years of gorging on beignets each time that I visit New Orleans and of living next to Apple Frankie, the undisputed “funnel cake king,” I consider myself somewhat of an expert on the two.  So, with a nod to the aforementioned A. Frankie, I shall attempt to determine, once and for all, which is truly the best greasy sweet.  Although I flew back from New Orleans over a month ago, beignets linger on my palate and mind.  Blanketed with powdered sugar, these pillows of dough are served hot and as a trio at the Crescent City landmark Cafe du Monde.  Light and oh-so sweet, they are a heavenly treat.  To balance out the avalanche of sugar hitting my bloodstream and clothes, I pair beignets with a decaf, chicory-laced cafe au lait and plenty of napkins.   While I associate beignets with New Orleans, they actually originated in France.  Made from the delicate, spongy pâte à choux, these airy, square pastries are found throughout the country.  They likewise pop up in such French-influenced regions as Quebec and, of course, …

It's Al Fresco Dining Time!

On the East Coast we’re in the middle of a spring heat wave.  Sunshine.  Ninety degrees.  Pleasant breeze.  All this beautiful weather spurs me to do one thing — drag my deathly pale, vitamin-D deprived body outside to dine al fresco. Italian for “fresh” or “open air,” al fresco refers quite simply to eating outdoors.  At one time I thought that this was ridiculous.  Who wants to swat away flies and bees, listen to irksome traffic and breath in pungent car exhaust as she eats?   As it turns out, I do.   As soon as the thermometer tops 55 and restaurants start erecting those towering, tree-like space heaters, I’m sliding into a wrought iron cafe chair and dining in the bracing spring air. Why the radical change of heart?  After a cold, dark winter spent indoors I no longer can bear to waste a minute of sunlight.  Pass me my sunglasses and I’ll be off to bask in the sun and nosh on refreshing, seasonal fare.  No gazpacho or vichyssoise on the menu?  No problem.  Although lighter dishes seem more appropriate for an al fresco atmosphere, I’m …

Ireland's Windy West Coast

Returning to a holiday spot does have its perks.  Since Sean and I had hit most of the major sites — Newgrange, Cliffs of Moher, Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, Blarney Castle and Belfast, Dunluce Castle and the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland — previously, we opted to explore the less visited but no less beautiful attractions of the Republic’s west coast.  Smart move!  This region has it all — majestic mountain ranges, crystal clear lakes, loads of grazing sheep, quaint villages, good restaurants and a wealth of historic sites. Portumna Castle – Built in the 16th century, Portumna Castle was left in ruins after an 1826 fire.  Restoration work began 30 years ago and continues to this day.  Beautiful setting.  Bad camera karma.  Here my latest Nikon, the D200, breathed its last breath.  What is it about Ireland and my cameras? Galway — Possessing few historic sites, this medieval, coastal, Gaelic-speaking city may not be the most obvious destination.  However, fresh seafood, excellent pubs and a vibrant downtown scene make Galway a perfect stopping …

Man (and Woman) of Aran

After renting a spiffy black Corsa, Sean and I set off for the Republic of Ireland’s west coast and the Aran Islands.   There we caught a stomach churning, 50-minute ferry to Inishmore, the largest of the three islands.  Home to those lovely Irish, wool, knitted sweaters and to such movies as “Man of Aran,” Inishmore is likewise renowned for its rugged landscape, blustery winds and rocks, rocks and more rocks. While most tourists opt to take a tour bus, hop a ride on a horse cart or rent a bike to see the island, we decided to hike.  Little did I know that the hike would be ALL uphill.   Huff.  Puff.  Huff. Puff.  Why is it that I never can find a taxi when I need one? Our destination was Dun Aenghus, a semi-circular, prehistoric fort perched precariously on the edge of a 90-meter cliff.  This was only one of several prehistoric sites on Inishmore but, as the others were even further away, Dun Aenghus was where we went.  Fortunately, Dun Aenghus is …

Dublin Days

A few weeks ago Sean and I decided to revisit Ireland.  Cheap airfare and the desire to relax in friendly, familiar environs made this country the obvious vacation choice.   So, setting aside more exotic locals, we hopped a flight to Dublin on Easter Sunday and kicked off our first full-fledged holiday of 2009. As anyone who has traveled with me can attest, no trip is complete without several nerdy and culinary activities.  In Dublin the nerdiness comes partly in the form of a pilgrimage to Ireland’s largest bookshop, Hodges Figgis on Dawson Street.  Opened in 1786, the four-story store carries over 60,000 books.  As if I need another book!  That doesn’t stop me from browsing the shelves at Hodges Figgis or at other charming, well-stocked shops such as The Winding Stair near the Haypenny Bridge or even the chain Waterstones, right across from Hodges Figgis. The fun doesn’t end there.  Oh no.  Along with bookstores I have to check out the city’s museum offerings.  This time Sean and I revisited the National Gallery of Ireland where last year I smashed my Nikon N80, bringing an end to my film SLR days.  We …

Joi de Vivre in New Orleans

No matter how many times I travel to New Orleans, I remain as in love with this city as I was the very first time.  So many beautiful sites.  So much wonderful food, music and drink.  Is it any wonder why I return again and again to the Crescent City? Every trip there is different.   One time I might roam around the museums, taking in the Cabildo, Ogden Museum of Southern Art or New Orleans Museum of Art.   Another time it might be a trip to the Audubon Zoo, a plantation tour or boat ride through the swamps.  Then there are the seasonal events such as Mardi Gras, the St. Patrick’s Day Parade and Jazz Fest.  All good stuff.    On the most recent journey I had the luxury of hanging out with a New Orleanian, my husband’s cousin Mike.  Thanks to him, I could experience life as a local as well as revisit some favorite tourist spots.  Beignets from Cafe du Monde — They’re a New Orleans institution and a must-have on any trip here.  Soft, warm and blanketed in powdered sugar, these French delicacies hooked …

Soup Up

Why, oh why, do I love soup?  Is it because it comes in so many forms and from so many different cuisines?  Maybe it’s the versatility; almost any food that you can plunk into a pot can be made into soup. Chicken, clams, lobster, yogurt, garlic, corn, potato, tomato, melon . . .. Then again, it could simply be because I’m too lazy to chew solids.   Nah!  Can’t be that!  Although it’s been served since roughly 6000 B.C., “soup” first entered the English lexicon in the 17th century.  Derived from the French word ‘soupe,’ it initially referred to broth poured over bread.  The dish quickly evolved into a liquid consumed on its own, without the sodden hunk of bread.  Later it came to include not only consommes but also bisques and meat- and vegetable-laden fare.    Because heartier soups often appeared as the sole dinner offering in poor, rural areas, many deemed them to be peasant food.   Even today people frequently think of soup not as a meal in itself but as accompaniment – “soup and salad” – or as the first course.   Yet, these thicker …

Sunday Rituals

For heathens (or hedonists) like me, Sunday consists not of rest and religious services but of food and flea markets.   At Isabella’s on Columbus and W. 77th I worship the concept of brunch, that wonderful meal offering me the options of both breakfast and lunch.  As an added bonus, Isabella’s brunch comes with a complimentary Bloody Mary, Bellini, Campari, mimosa or glass of champagne and a basket of raisin-fennel and carrot breads.   Is it any wonder why I bound out of bed?      Suffering from a terrible sweet tooth, I usually order the carmelized banana-stuffed French toast.  Topped with strawberries macerated in Grand Marnier sauce, it’s both decadent and ever so slightly good for me.  (Just remember, whether sauteed in sugar and butter or soaked in orange liqueur, it’s still fruit.  Or so I keep telling myself.)  On mornings when I’m hankering a cholesterol boost, I opt for Isabella’s smoked salmon Benedict on a buttermilk biscuit with a side of home fries.  And, on those rare Sundays when I’m feeling a tad health conscious, I order the seasonal fruit plate.       After brunch it’s across the street to the temple of quirky consumption, GreenFlea.  Looking for bronze …

Home Cooked Comfort

Day after day I read the newspaper, listen to NPR and watch the news and feel surprisingly fortunate.  Granted, most of the publications for which I write have declared bankruptcy and my monthly financial statements have become the butt of sad jokes.  Yet, to paraphrase the Republican party of the 1920’s, I still have ‘a chicken in the pot and a car in the backyard, to boot. ‘   Where I notice this economic downturn is in the kitchen.  It’s not how often I cook but what I cook that differs.  Gone are the big, time consuming dinners featuring exotic ingredients found only at gourmet and specialty shops.  Instead I now make simpler, more comforting fare.    One such heartening meal is ratatouille.  After yet another day of dire news I can think of nothing more nurturing than tucking into a warm bowl of this garlic-scented, vegetable-rich, Provencal stew.  With eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers and hints of basil, oregano and thyme, it gives me a much needed lift when I’m down. Who doesn’t feel bolstered by a good, hot soup?  I know that I do.  Pumpkin, chicken with orzo, vegetarian black bean, potato leek, …

An Excuse for Gluttony

  As I sit here, gauze jammed into my left cheek after oral surgery, my thoughts turn to all the solid food that I won’t be eating for the next few days and all the delectable goodies that I consumed over the weekend.  This year Valentine’s Day — and my impending trip to the oral surgeon — served as the ideal reason to go out and indulge.   The gorging began on Friday the 13th with dinner at the organic, seasonal, artisanal restaurant Telepan.  I jumped headlong into the feasting with an appetizer of house-smoked brook trout on a buckwheat-potato blini while Sean sensibly began his meal with a winter salad.  For entrees there was polenta souffle with wild mushrooms and corn hominy for me and roasted chicken with chicken liver dumplings and Brussels sprouts for Sean.  The best part of any meal, and particularly this meal, was dessert — sticky toffee cake with creme fraiche ice cream and candied cranberries.  Wow!   Sweets stayed on the menu for Saturday.  After a healthful breakfast of yogurt, granola, bananas and berries Sean and I eventually made our way …