Year: 2008

Trials of Holiday Baking

  Ask me to make a pot of succulent coq au vin, a platter of spanikopita based upon that fragile phyllo dough or eggs Benedict with a picture-perfect Hollandaise sauce and I’ll rise to the occasion every single time.  Give me a “simple” culinary task, such as using a 3-dimensional cake mold to make a cutesy Christmas bear, and I flounder over and over again. Case in point:  The Williams-Sonoma Build-A-Bear cake pan.  Sean bought this adorable, Nordicware pan and the accompanying fondant Santa bear outfit at Williams-Sonoma as an early holiday gift for me.  The plan?  That I master making this cake before our annual Christmas Eve party.  We both envisioned our friends and family crowding around the dessert table on December 24th, all smiles as they ooo-ed and ah-ed over the cake.   “Ah, look at the cute, little Santa bear.  Isn’t he just the sweetest thing?”  They’ll definitely say something about that cake but more likely it will be, “What on earth is that freak of nature supposed to be?!  Someone please take a knife to it and put it out of its misery!” The first failure …

Panettone & Other Holiday Breads

In early October, when most people hadn’t even started thinking about Halloween, I sat in my kitchen, mounds of cookbooks spread out before me, mulling over Christmas recipes.  That’s the thing about food writing.  You never work within the season.  In fall I’m researching summer sorbets.  In spring I could be scouring upscale markets in search of an out-of-season persimmon.  A quirky apsect of the field but one that leaves me well-prepared for every season and event. What I learned on those warm, fall afternoons is that every country seems to possess a Christmas bread.  In Germany it’s dried fruit and nut-studded stollen.  Dusted with powdered sugar or iced with a powdered sugar frosting, stollen is a delectable snack, dessert or breakfast sweet.   Forget Christmas.  I could eat this every day of the week. The same holds true for panettone.  Originating in Milan, panettone is served year-round at special occasions.  With its rich, cake-like dough and tall, mushroom-like shape, it’s a stunner in both taste and appearance.  Traditionally, raisins, candied citron and citrus zest fill out the bread but my concoction …

A Few Favorite Farmers' Markets

Recently the New York Times ran a small story about Europe’s reversal of a ban on selling “ugly” produce.  At the time I laughed at the bizarreness of this ruling.  I did the same two weekends ago as I stood on line at the Phoenixville Farmers’ Market, a knobbly parsnip clutched in my right hand.  Years of hanging out at farmers’ markets and of intermittently and unsuccessfully growing my own vegetables have taught me that beautiful does not mean better.  In fact, in most instances the pretty produce found at grocery stores is downright bland.  Granted, every now and then my farmer’s market purchases might yield a crooked carrot or dirt still clinging to my microgreens.  Yet, because of the wealth of good, seasonal products and opportunity to support local and increasingly biodynamic farmers, it remains my preferred place for produce.  Thanks to the luxury of travel and of dividing my time between city and suburban life, I have a long list of favorite markets at which I shop.  In New York I go to the place that anyone who has ever lived in or around the city seems to know, Union Square’s Greenmarket.  Greenmarket has …

Macy's Balloon Inflation Night

I used to think that the Macy’s Thanksgiving balloon inflation was an event known only to locals.  Not even my friend Susan, who has lived in NY almost her entire life, has ever walked along Central Park West pre-turkey day night.  Back in 2000, the year that I moved to the city, I breezed past the balloons outside of the Museum of Natural History, stopping when I wanted, taking photos when I felt like it.  I never fought snarky crowds or grumbled about tall people, poofy hair or fuzzy hats blocking my view.  In the past few years hordes of people have begun showing up for balloon inflation night.  Last night’s turnout along W. 81st to W. 77th and Columbus and Central Park West swelled to ridiculous proportions, as enormous and monstrous as a giant Kermit the Frog pumped up high on helium.  So much for stopping and snapping tons of awesome pictures as I used to do.       Balloon inflation officially started at 3 o’clock in the afternoon.  Due to a last minute trip to Kitchen Arts and Letters and an apple pie purchase at Zabar’s, Sean and I reached the route a little later than planned, around …

Mohonk Mountain House – New Paltz, New York

Earlier this fall I had the pleasure of returning to the 19th century, Victorian style resort Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, New York.  Nestled into the Shawangunk Mountains in New York’s oh-so scenic Hudson Valley, about 90 minutes west of NYC, Mohonk has become synonymous with relaxation and comfort.  A National Historic Landmark as well as a Historic Hotel of America, the 265-room hotel has been owned, operated and cared for by the same family, the Smileys, since 1869.  They have made every effort to jettison their guests away from the chaos and stress of daily life and into a world of wholesome luxury and fun.    Blame it on a desire to squeeze every single hotel-sponsored activity into my visit but I never miss afternoon tea.  In spring, summer and fall we sit on wooden slat rocking chairs and take in the views of the putting course, gardens and huge fish swimming in Lake Mohonk.  In winter we curl up in front of one of the resort’s 138 working fireplaces and dunk our peanut butter, oatmeal raisin and sugar cookies into steaming cups of black tea.   So winsome.  So delicious.  So …

St. Louis, Gateway to Fun

Before a recent trip to St. Louis, all that I knew about the “gateway to the West” was just that — the St. Louis a/k/a “Gateway” Arch.   Au contraire!  There is far more to this city of 354,000 than the iconic 630-foot high and 630-foot wide monument.  Lush parks, vibrant festivals, beautiful museums and unique, local foods rank high among the many offerings. As luck would have it, my visit coincided with the 36th annual Great Forest Park Balloon Race.  The colorful, two-day event kicked off on Friday evening with the traditional “balloon glow;” roughly 39 inflated hot air balloons, illuminated by their burners, stood in Forest Park’s Central Field where spectators strolled, snapped photos and partook of food and drink.  The next day’s race filled the sky with these plump, cheerful balloons.  Both on land and in the air they were a breathtaking sight. The 1,293-acre Forest Park is a site in its own right.  Home to the 1904 World’s Fair, it now contains the city’s art and history museums, zoo, science center, tennis center and opera house.  An art addict, I spent an afternoon admiring the works of such diverse artists as Chuck Close, …

Portland, Maine: It's not just about lobsters.

Tell people that you’re headed to Maine and more than likely you’ll hear “Oh, you going up there for the lobster? ” Repeated trips to the easternmost state have taught me that there is more to Maine than cold water crustaceans. Spend a few days in Portland, the largest city in the state, and you’ll soon see what I mean. With a population of 64,000 Portland’s size pales in comparison to most urban centers. What it lacks in numbers, it compensates in character, history, charm and cuisine.  Such is the case at Becky’s Diner.  Located at the end of Hobson’s Wharf, Becky’s has been sustaining local fishermen, townspeople and tourists for close to 20 years.  Its wholesome food and friendly service pack the red vinyl booths and counter stools “362 1/2 days.”  Don’t miss the perfectly cooked home fries, generous amounts of fresh fruit and scrumptious grilled muffins at breakfast, my favorite meal there. Nestled in a low brick building one block from the water in the Old Port District, Fore Street and its culinary feats have been recognized by the James Beard Foundation as well as Gourmet …

Quick Bites in NY

On days when I can’t face another slice of wheat toast with peanut butter for breakfast or one more tuna sandwich eaten at my desk, I see no choice but to sneak out for a quick bite.  Depending on the season and mood, I might slip downstairs for an omelette, waffle or fresh fruit and yogurt at the Key West Diner, pop around the corner for avocado rolls at AsiaKan or wander down Broadway for gazpacho at the Belgian bakery/restaurant franchise Le Pain Quotidien.  If time permits, I might opt for the Dive Bar or a short subway ride down to the Village to dine at a few favorites there.  Hey, if I’m taking a break from work, I might as well make it worthwhile. Ah, the Dive Bar.  It is not a true dive but rather a cozy, neighborhood hang-out with a slightly aquatic theme.  At the Dive Bar closest to me on Amsterdam and W. 96th a huge fish tank — the aquatic touch — greets me whenever I stroll through the front door.  The best things about the Dive Bar, though, are not the ’round-the-corner …

Further Food Forays in Pittsburgh

Primanti Bros. and Pamela’s.  Multiple Pittsburgh locations.  Loads of good, uncomplicated food.  Hot, hungry and thirsty, my childhood friends Nickie, Marilee, Jen, Ann and I wound up seated at the counter of the original Primanti Bros.  Located on 18th Street in the Strip District, Primanti’s has been serving its famous french fry and coleslaw-stuffed sandwiches here for 75 years.  This locale operates 24-7, perfect for the bar crowd or for anyone craving a kolbassi and cheese or sardine and cheese sandwich at 3 in the morning. On a late Saturday afternoon our needs were a bit more mainstream.  Along with chilled bottles of Iron City Beer, the drink of derision for much of my 20s but not for my nostalgia-fueled 30s, we chowed down such “and cheese” sandwiches as jumbo fish, spicy capicola ham and ragin’ cajun chicken breast.  Not one of us could finish these huge sandwiches.  The beer, however, was a different tale.   Along with the good friends and food, the best part of eating at Primanti Bros. was the free show.  By sitting at the counter, we could watch the cook grill …

Home Turf Tourists – Pittsburgh

Moving to suburban Philly after college, I got a lot of flack about being from Western Pa.  “Pittsburgh?  That’s not a city!”  And then I moved to New York for graduate school.  You can just imagine what I heard.  Yet, when getting together with my childhood friends, I can think of no more fitting gathering spot than the city of our youth.  With a wealth of museums, parks, shopping districts, restaurants and bars Pittsburgh offers both the casual visitor and hardcore tourist countless things to do.  This summer my friends and I revisited the Andy Warhol Museum, the largest American museum devoted to a single artist.  Want to see Elvis, the Last Supper, Silver Clouds or Brillo Boxes writ large?  The Warhol’s got them as well as 4,000 other works of his art.   Along with a love of New York, the Velvet Underground, eccentricity, art and cats, the late pop artist and I share a birthday.  I found it quite fitting to be there, admiring the best of Andy and his Wild Raspberries cookbook, less than two weeks before our special day.    A short ride up the Duquesne Incline …