I usually don’t ransack my bank account in order to eat well in NY. However, on nights when I want a meal that will knock socks off, I dig out my debit card and head on over to Chef Bill Telepan’s eponymous restaurant, Telepan. Located on Manhattan’s Upper West Side and, happily, a short walk from my apartment, Telepan serves exceptional seasonal, New American cuisine in a low key but smart former townhouse. Much has been made of Telepan’s dedication to Greenmarket cooking. Granted, it’s not a new concept but it is one of which he is a master. Each dish shines with its own well-paired, fresh, seasonal ingredients. Take, for instance, my favorite Telepan appetizer — sunny-side egg with fried green tomato, cloth bound cheddar and spring onion. Just typing that description makes me crave this summery starter. Then there are the ricotta and herb ravioli with roasted tomato, gazpacho salad, and house-smoked brook trout with corn blini. All showcase seasonal ingredients. All are delicious. The gastronomical delights don’t end with hors d’oeuvres. An …