Imagine a pristine, holy city situated on a clear lake. Imagine that tranquil spot filled with serene followers gathered together to worship and pray at one of 400 temples. Imagine how relaxing, pretty and peaceful such a place would be. Go on. Keep imagining for the sacred Hindu city of Pushkar is nothing like what you’d expect it to be. After a jaw-clenching, 3-hour drive from Jaipur we arrived in the dusty, trash-strewn town of Pushkar, population 15,000. Here the streets are paved not with gold or even macadam but with tourists and peddlers. The beautiful lake? Thanks to a dry monsoon season, it is muddy and filled with garbage. Upon our arrival we quickly caught on to the overall tone of Pushkar. Visiting a temple? Buy some marigolds or puffed rice to throw as an offering. Looking for a trinket to sum up your pilgrimage to this hallowed land? Buy my wool pashmina, semi-precious stone bracelet, brass Ganesha, leather sandals or mirrored pillowcase. Just feeling generous? Then buy me a chapati for …