Tea Ceremonies
Excerpted from Entertaining from Ancient Rome to the Superbowl (Greenwood Publishing, 2008)
Tea
ceremonies have their origins in China where tea’s cultivation began
4,000 years ago. During the 10th -13th century Song Dynasty a
style of tea drinking developed that involved using powdered green tea,
ceramic serving bowls, and precise serving rituals. Known as the
Song tea ceremony, its customs spread throughout Asia.
Although
the practice no longer takes place in China, drinking tea remains an
integral part of family celebrations and weddings. During the
holidays in particular younger generations take their elders to
restaurants to have tea and pay their
respects.
Japanese
tea ceremonies began in the 13th century after Buddhist monks returning
from China introduced the Song tea ceremony to their countrymen.
Emphasizing serenity, simplicity, and self-discipline, the Japanese
version follows two schools of teaching, Omotesenke and Urasenke.
Participants are expected to know the basic tenets of these schools and
to exhibit the proper manners for serving and accepting tea.
Both
Omotsenke and Urasenke require guests to wash their hands, rinse their
mouths, and remove their shoes before entering a tea house.
Inside they are greeted by a kimono-clad host or hostess. Before
the tea ceremony begins, the host may serve a small snack finished off
with Japanese rice wine, sake, or an array of sweets.
The
host then kneels on a tatami, or straw mat, floor, and cleans each tea
making-utensil in front of his similarly kneeling, formally dressed
guests. After completing this ritual, the host selects a
ceremonial bamboo whisk with which he will mix hot water and powdered
green tea in a ceramic tea bowl. Tea whisked, he then passes the
bowl to his guests. Each person takes two or three sips before
praising the drink, wiping the bowl’s rim, and, with a bow, passing the
bowl to the next person.
The
procedure is repeated until everyone has drunk the tea. The host
then cleans the utensils again. As prescribed, the tea ceremony
may take between one to four hours to complete. A sense of
tranquility is maintained throughout and conversation is kept to a
minimum.
A contrast to the Japanese
ceremonies, afternoon tea in Great Britain and former British colonies
acts as a means of satiating one’s appetite. British afternoon
tea began in the early 19th century when Anna the Duchess of Bedford
requested that a snack of tea, bread, and butter be delivered to her
chambers in the late afternoon. She required this light meal at
five o’clock because she had experienced a “sinking feeling” and could
not wait for the standard eight o’clock dinner. Soon after the
Duchess began inviting friends to join her for this daily repast and
stave off pre-dinner hunger pangs. Tea was served then as it is
now – in a teapot accompanied with milk and sugar.
Over
the years afternoon tea has come to include scones with jam and clotted
cream, small iced cakes and pastries, and tea sandwiches, all of which
are displayed on a tiered stand. Customary tea sandwiches consist
of thinly sliced cucumber, egg, and smoked salmon and dill. The
delicate sandwiches are served with the crusts removed and cut into
triangles. A simpler version of afternoon tea, Devon cream tea
omits the sandwiches and calls only for scones, jam, and clotted
cream.
Taken around four o’clock,
British afternoon tea is offered in homes, tea shops, and hotels,
consumed by patrons dressed casually or in their best finery, and with
as much as conversation as desired. In the United States
afternoon tea appears on the menus of tea shops and high end hotels and
is often mistakenly referred to as “high tea.” High tea is, in
fact, an early evening meal served at six o’clock and stands as a
substitute for the later evening
dinner.
Throughout much of North Africa mint tea
or atay bi nahna acts as the drink of hospitality. Introduced by
the British in the 1850’s, green tea was quickly accepted and adapted
by the North Africans. Served in a silver, ornamental
teapot, the hot tea contains a generous infusion of fresh mint and
sugar. Poured from the teapot held high above the table, it
splashes gently into small, slender, filigree glasses. Sweet
pastries can accompany it and do so during the Festival of Ad Al Fitr,
which celebrates the end of Ramadan.
Deemed
a symbol of good will, mint tea plays a prominent role in welcoming
houseguests, conducting business dealings, bargaining for carpets,
woodcrafts, or souvenirs and relaxing with friends at a cafe.
Also thought to aid in digestion, it is served at the beginning or end
of every meal. Etiquette requires that each person consume
three glasses before departing a home, shop, or cafe. To decline
a glass is deemed rude.
Whether due to
its lack of expense, comforting taste, ritualized yet simple
preparation, or mildly addictive properties, mint tea has captivated
this region. One cannot walk through a busy square without seeing
rich, steaming tea being sipped at sidewalk cafes or in
storefronts. Wherever tea is taken, lively conversation remains
part of the event.