Summer's Fresh and Fruity Desserts

It all started shortly after college, when I began to receive invitations to older colleagues' picnics, garden parties and barbecues. "Bring a summer dessert," the seasoned hosts and hostesses would suggest, "something that's simple and you love to make."

What I loved to make were fudge brownies and angel food cake, both from a boxed mix. These may have suited the nacho chips-and-beer gatherings of yore but were not for the new canape-eating, wine-drinking crowd. For these gourmands I needed to create something special, an eye-catching, palate-pleasing treat.

Luckily, summer provided - and continues to provide - me with an abundance of flashy, flavorful fruits. They were the perfect basis for some surprisingly easy and luscious desserts.

Inspired by a recipe in Jane Grigson's "English Food," I first attempted a raspberry fool. A popular and venerable British dessert, fools consist of cooked fruit that has been mashed or pureed, chilled and then folded into homemade whipped cream. The name "fool" reputedly comes from the French term "fouler," which translates as "to press," and not from any jabs at the cook.

Although Ms. Grigson's recipe called for gooseberries - those small, pale green, tart, European berries - I opted for several pints of plump raspberries. They simply were much easier to find. I later learned that any soft fruit from berries to apricots or even rhubarb will do.

My resultant bowl of pillowy, scarlet-streaked fool looked a bit like raspberry ripple ice cream. But its velvety, melt-in-your-mouth texture and tangy taste set it miles apart from the store-bought standby. Spooned into fluted parfait cups, the fool was an elegant, and effortless, foray into homemade summer desserts.

Encouraged by my initial success, I started to eye supermarket produce sections and farm stands for the possible stars of my next dessert. Whether black, blue or red, locally grown berries invariably played a principal role.

For some parties I would puree a pint with a few tablespoons of powdered sugar and lemon juice to form a berry coulis. This then dressed up my beloved angel food cake.

Other times I would dig out my double boiler and whisk together egg yolks, sugar and a fruity wine or brandy to create an airy sabayon. I poured this pale, light sauce into a baking dish filled with berries and put the dish under the broiler for 2 minutes. The end result was an exquisite dish.

Likewise, salads made for a succulent final course. Watermelons were cut into bite-sized chunks, tossed with chopped fresh mint and spritzed with fresh lime juice. Placed in a shimmering crystal or cut glass bowl, the green-specked, ruby red cubes stole the show.

Stone fruits such as nectarines, plums and cherries were pitted, diced and mixed together with other seasonal fare such as guava, blueberries and blackberries. Together they were stuffed into the centers of halved honeydews or cantaloupes. A snap to put together and transport, they, too, were visual and gustatory delight.

For get-togethers at home I allowed my grill to work its wonders on array of fruits. On its hot, well-oiled grate I laid skewers of sliced pineapples, peaches and apricots that had been slathered with simple syrup - one part water to one part sugar, boiled until the sugar dissolved. I grilled the fruit until lightly browned, removed the slices from the grill and then either drizzled chocolate syrup or sprinkled coconut flakes over each.

At that time I was too timid to try my hand at such summer classics as peach pie, homemade shortcakes with strawberries, and blackberry cobbler. Why mess with tricky pastry recipes when I could instead hit the bakeries for these treats? Over a decade later my attitude has altered, but I nonetheless do enjoy a good, professionally baked sweet.

I can think of no better place for this than the Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery in Kimmswick, Mo. Located 25 minutes south of St. Louis, the Blue Owl has been owned and operated by Mary Hostetter for 23 years. There she and her staff create more than 100 different pastries, pies and cakes, including a heavenly peach amaretto cheesecake and to-die-for strawberry rhubarb pie.

For summer fruit desserts she follows a basic rule. "The fresher the fruit, the more delicious and juicier the product," says Ms. Hostetter, who, along with the Blue Owl, has been featured on the Food Network's "Road Tasted" and "Paula's Party."

While I now possess a long list of desserts that I love to make, I still struggle with how to spice up my summertime confections. For Michael Falcone, chef-owner of the Funky Lil Kitchen in Pottstown, Pa., spicing is one of the ways he turns the ordinary into extraordinary.

"Everyone thinks sweet, sweet, sweet, but we try to do something a little different a little more challenging," says Mr. Falcone of the desserts served at his modern American restaurant on the outskirts of Philadelphia.

The strawberries on his shortcakes first macerate in fresh basil, tarragon and mint. Black pepper creme fraiche or basil-laced whipped cream crown his chilled peach soup.

Like Ms. Hostetter, he advocates using fresh, seasonal fruits. "You can get things year round but the taste just isn't going to be there," he says.

Ending the night with a seasonal fruit soup has certainly enlivened my summer menu. A Scandinavian specialty, fruit soups vary from thin and delicate to thick and hearty. They may be served hot or cold and consist of such ingredients as cherries, melons or rosehips.

Some, such as Danish apple soup, have a decidedly savory edge. The Danish version adds cloves, shallots and curry powder to pureed apples.

Most, however, take a sweeter route. They include sugar and such stocks as wine, champagne, brandy or orange juice.

No matter whether I mash, puree, bake or serve them raw, summer fruits have become a staple of my dessert repertoire. A venture born out of necessity has truly become a labor of love.

FUNKY LIL KITCHEN'S CHILLED PEACH SOUP WITH BASIL WHIPPED CREAM
Courtesy of Michael Falcone

8 ripe peaches, peeled, pitted and cut into quarters
4 cups sweet white wine
1/4 cup white sugar
Pinch salt
1 cup heavy cream
Basil Whipped Cream (see recipe below)

Combine the peaches, white wine, sugar and salt in a small stockpot, and bring to a simmer over medium heat to cook off alcohol, dissolve the sugar and reduce the liquid by 1/3.

Transfer the ingredients from the pot into a blender and blend until smooth. Keep the blender lid slightly ajar and covered with a towel to prevent steam pressure from building in the blender.

Strain the pureed liquid through a fine mesh sieve. Pour it back into the pot and, over low heat, add the heavy cream, stirring to incorporate. Heat for 2 minutes.

Let the soup cool at room temperature and then refrigerate it for at least 4 hours or overnight.

To Serve: Ladle 4 to 6 ounces of soup into bowl and top with Basil Whipped Cream. Serves 4 to 6.

BASIL WHIPPED CREAM:

1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup confectioners sugar
2 tablespoons fresh basil, minced

Whip the cream and sugar in a mixer on high speed until stiff peaks form.

Turn off the mixer and, using a spoon or spatula, fold in the basil.

RASPBERRY FOOL

1 pound raspberries, washed
1/3 to 1/2 cup vanilla sugar
1 1/4 cups heavy cream

In a medium-sized bowl, mash the raspberries with a fork or heavy spoon. Press the berries through a sieve to remove the seeds. Add 1/3 cup of vanilla sugar to the mashed raspberries. Stir to combine and then taste the raspberries for desired sweetness. If too tart, add the remaining sugar.

Using an electric mixer, whip the cream in a large, chilled bowl until thickened and soft peaks have formed.

Slowly fold the raspberries into the whipped cream so that bands of red are interspersed within the cream. You want the fool to appear streaky, not well blended. Spoon the fool into small bowls, champagne flutes or parfait cups and serve immediately.  Serves 4.

FRESH MIXED BERRY SABAYON
While I prefer to mix several different berries together, this can be made with a single type.

6 extra-large egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup framboise (raspberry brandy)
1 1/4 cups blackberries, washed
1 cup blueberries, stems removed and washed
1 1/4 cups strawberries, stems removed, washed and diced

Place a small amount of water in the bottom half of a double boiler or a saucepan and bring the water to a simmer.

In the top half of the double boiler or in a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar. Slowly add the framboise, whisking to combine.

Set the top part of the double boiler or the large bowl over the pan of simmering water and whisk the egg mixture continually until it becomes foamy and begins to thicken, between 5 to 10 minutes.

Remove the sauce from the heat.

Tumble the berries into a 2-quart baking dish. Spoon the sabayon over the berries and place the dish beneath an oven broiler and broil on medium for 1 to 2 minutes, checking the dish frequently to ensure that the contents don't burn. When the sabayon begins to color, remove the dish from the oven and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

© 2008, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.