Stuff It
Published in the Chicago Tribune in December 2009
No doubt anyone who has ever stuffed a bird, pig or vegetable possesses
at least one stuffing disaster story. Too much basting
turned the bread crumb stuffing into a mushy porridge of bread, onions
and celery. Too long in the oven left it as dry and brittle as
unadorned toast.
Sometimes true disaster
strikes. Undercooked but appearing perfect, the gorgeous stuffing
made all the dinner guests deadly ill. Tales such as these leave
you wondering why we fill the insides of anything or at least why we
always employ the same basic ingredients each and every time.
History, in part, dictates why
we stuff foods. Since classical Roman times cooks have been
filling meaty cavities with edible surprises. Roast pigs
packed with sausages and black pudding and geese brimming with bread,
onions and sage both graced the dinner table during this
period.
Centuries later medieval recipes
likewise called for stuffing. In some cases the dish could be as
simple as an almond encased inside ground meat or a dab of marzipan
squeezed inside a halved apricot or date.
Practicality also plays a role
in why we stuff. During tough times cooks could stretch a
meal by loading their small allotments of meat with hunks of
inexpensive white bread and seasonings. The starchy filling
absorbed the roasting meat’s rich juices and produced a satisfying side
dish.
Likewise, stuffing could make a
mundane offering exciting. France, in particular, is
renowned for its “farces,” the unexpected stuffing found inside
food.
During the 19th century French chefs molded seasoned, finely ground
veal, pork or chicken – forcemeats - into whimsical shapes and slid the
dressings inside meat, poultry or fish. When diners cut into
their dinners, they were surprised and delighted to discover a ball-,
egg- or carrot-shaped portion of flavorful filling awaiting them.
Outside of the customary bread and finely ground forcemeats cooks have
a variety of stuffings from which to choose. Wild rice, couscous,
and lentils all produce delicious savory fillings. Gingerbread
provides an unusual, spicy twist while cornbread mixed with apples and
cranberries lends a more traditional taste to the dish.
While the tried and true bread crumb goes well with virtually anything,
wild rice stuffing partners best with such fowl as goose, turkey,
chicken and Cornish game hens. Apple-cranberry-cornbread
enlivens duck, goose, pork and turkey. As for the zesty
gingerbread, that compliments turkey perfectly.
On the vegetable front, couscous works wonders in tomatoes, zucchini
and eggplants. Lentils lend a little zip to salmon, squash,
pumpkins, mushrooms and peppers.
No matter which dressing a cook chooses, he invariably faces the same
dilemma. Unless the stuffing reaches a minimum internal
temperature of 165 degrees Fahrenheit, bacteria will breed in
it. Yet, by increasing the cooking time and temperature of
the stuffed meat, poultry or fish, the cook may end up with well done
stuffing and a parched, overcooked main dish.
To avoid the quandary of optimum food safety versus proper doneness,
the USDA advises cooking stuffing separately in a casserole.
Simply place a shallow layer of filling in a buttered baking dish,
cover it with foil and bake for 30 minutes at 350 degrees
Fahrenheit. After 30 minutes remove the foil and continue to bake
for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the dressing is golden brown on
top.
Worried that the absence of meat drippings will translate into a dry
stuffing? Simply pour melted butter, bacon fat or the actual
drippings into the stuffing. Fat won’t dry out in the oven nor
will it turn breads and grains gooey the way that stocks and other
liquids do.
For even wetter fillings include whole, beaten eggs. The
egg-bolstered stuffings are fluffier yet firmer than those moistened
with fat. Note that if you make your dressing in advance, do not
add the eggs until the dressing has been re-heated and is ready to be
fully baked.
Those cooks who feel compelled
to stuff poultry and meat should cook and then cool their stuffing
mixtures before inserting them into the cavities. To
prevent bacteria from forming, fill the meats just before sliding them
into preheated ovens. Additionally, pack them loosely and lightly
so that the fillings will cook more evenly.
With a little creativity regarding ingredients and slight alternations
to how its cooked stuffing can be the hit, rather than horror story, at
every meal.
Wild Rice-Mushroom-Almond Stuffing
Serves 8
3 cups chicken stock
2 cups wild rice
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 leeks, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
12 ounces cremini mushrooms, cleaned and diced
2 tablespoons dried parsley
2 teaspoons dried thyme
ground pepper, to taste
½ cup blanched almonds, toasted and chopped
In a medium saucepan bring the chicken stock and rice to a boil.
Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan and simmer until all the
liquid has been absorbed. The rice should still be slightly firm.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
In a medium sauté or frying pan melt the butter. Add the leeks,
garlic and mushrooms and sauté until lightly browned. Add the
parsley, thyme and ground pepper and stir. Tumble in the rice and
chopped almonds. Mix the ingredients together and then spoon into
a large, buttered baking dish. Cover the dish with tinfoil and
bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the rice is evenly heated.
Serve warm
Spicy Lentil Stuffing
Serves 6
4 cups water
1 cup whole red lentils
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium red bell pepper, washed, seeded and chopped
1 small white onion (roughly 1 cup), finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
¾ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon turmeric
In a medium saucepan combine the water and lentils and bring them to a
boil. Lower the heat to medium and continue cooking until the
lentils have softened but are still somewhat firm, about 20 to 25
minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter a medium-sized baking dish.
Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized sauté or frying pan. Add the
red peppers, onions and garlic and sauté for 10 minutes, until softened
but not browned. Add the cayenne pepper, salt, cumin and turmeric
and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes. Tumble in the cooked lentils
and simmer for about 5 minutes. If using the lentils to stuff
vegetables or fish, allow them to simmer 5 additional minutes before
removing from the heat. Cool the lentils completely before
stuffing.
If cooking the lentil stuffing separately, spoon it into the buttered
baking dish, cover it with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Serve
immediately.
Apple-Cranberry-Cornbread Stuffing
Serves 6 to 8
4 cups crumbled cornbread
2 cups wheat bread crumbs
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup white onion, finely chopped
½ cup celery, finely chopped
1 cup Macintosh apples, diced
½ cup dried cranberries
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried rosemary
½ teaspoon salt
2/3 cup apple cider
½ cup chicken stock
Place cornbread and wheat bread crumbs on a baking sheet and toast
under a medium broiler until browned. Remove and place in a large
bowl.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter a large baking dish.
In a small sauté pan heat 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the onion
and celery and sauté for 10 minutes, until softened but not
browned. Place the sautéed vegetables in the bowl with the
breadcrumbs. Add the apples, cranberries, thyme, rosemary and
salt and stir until the ingredients are well combined. Evenly
pour the apple cider and the stock over the stuffing and toss
together.
Loosely layer the stuffing in the buttered baking dish. Dot the
top of the stuffing with the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter.
Cover the dish with foil and bake for 30 minutes. After 30
minutes remove the foil and continue to bake for another 10 minutes
until browned. Serve immediately.
© 2009, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.