Traveling - Rhinebeck, New York

Published in Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Magazine Holiday 2005

Approximately two hours north of Manhattan in New York’s Hudson River Valley lies the quaint, historic village of Rhinebeck. Once a well known stagecoach stop for weary travelers, Rhinebeck still serves as a rejuvenating retreat for tired trekkers and energetic vacationers alike.

Founded in 1686 by Dutch settlers, the modern-day village manages to maintain a touch of old world charm. Wide, tree-lined sidewalks make wandering around town a pleasure. The architecture, dating from the 18th to the early 20th centuries, provides endless visual delights. Distinct architectural styles such as Queen Anne, Federal, Gothic and Greek Revival blend seamlessly in the lush, leafy neighborhoods.

An excellent example of Queen Anne architecture and of the grand, old homes dotting Rhinebeck’s countryside is Wilderstein at 330 Morton Road. Situated on 40, landscaped acres along the banks of the Hudson River, Wilderstein was home to three generations of the wealthy Suckley family, the most famous member being “Daisy.” Margaret “Daisy” Suckley was archivist for, distant cousin of and close companion to President Franklin D. Roosevelt, whose own home is in nearby Hyde Park. The last to reside in the house, she died in 1991 at the age of 100.

During the holiday season Wilderstein hosts a yuletide tea and Victorian holiday house tours. (845-876-4818)

For those interested in learning more about the local architecture while engaging in a leisurely stroll, the Rhinebeck Chamber of Commerce provides two detailed, self-guided, walking tours. Each tour takes 90 minutes and highlights many of the 437 sites listed on the National Historic Register, including the Beekman Arms, the oldest continuously operating inn in America. In business since 1766, the Beekman is a wonderful place to pop in for a break from walking, grab a restorative bowl of onion soup or spend a peaceful night in one of its 23 charming rooms. (845-876-7077)

Walking tour brochures can be obtained at the Chamber’s information booth on Mill Street, across from the Beekman Arms, or online at www.rhinebeckchamber.com.

While downtown, be sure to slip inside Rhinebeck’s retail institutions including the aromatic cigar shop and newsstand, the United Smoke Shop, on 2 East Market Street. With its aisles overflowing with sewing supplies, stationery, cookware and children’s games the antiquated but well-stocked Al Stickle Variety Store at 13 East Market Street transports customers back to a bygone era.

A few doors down from United Smoke Shop Winter Sun and Summer Moon at 10-14 East Market sell an eclectic collection of clothing, shoes, jewelry, ethnic crafts and handbags. Across the street the Rhinebeck Department Store carries more traditional lines of upscale country apparel including Woolrich and Pendleton.

Along with its assortment of unique clothing, home furnishings and book stores, Rhinebeck has a plethora of quality antique shops along Mill and West Market Streets. Shoppers will find great holiday gifts at the multi-level Beekman Arms Antique Market and Gallery, situated behind the inn at 6387 Mill Street, as well as at Asher House Antiques at 6380 Mill Street.

If, after exploring Wilderstein and downtown Rhinebeck, a craving for historic buildings and architecture persists, then head south approximately 10 miles on Route 9 toward Hyde Park. There, nestled in the woods behind a high stone wall, sits the fully furnished, 54-room Vanderbilt Mansion. Used as a weekend home for Frederick and Louise Vanderbilt, the 19th century Beaux-Arts mansion offers 45-minute, guided tours from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. daily. (800-967-2283)

Continuing south on Route 9 into Hyde Park, travelers cannot miss the stately home, library, cottage and burial site of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. The 300-acre, national historic site possesses the nation’s first presidential library and museum. The museum contains, among other things, Roosevelt’s desk as he left it on his last working day at the White House. Like the Vanderbilt Mansion, the FDR site remains open year round, 9 to 5, with both guided and self-guided tours available daily. (800-967-2283)

Out-of-towners could easily conclude that historic houses overrun this region. In addition to the aforementioned sites, the Rhinebeck area contains the 19th century Greek Revival Mills Mansion (845-889-8851), the 434-acre, riverside villa at Montgomery Place (845-758-5461), the 18th century Georgian estate of Clermont (518-537-4240) and Eleanor Roosevelt’s own private retreat, Val-Kill (800-967-2283).

Beyond the abundance of neighboring mansions Rhinebeck boasts of a wealth of outdoor activities. From kayaking theHudson and sledding the 550-foot high Burger Hill to picking your own produce at Wonderland Farm on White Schoolhouse Road, Rhinebeck provides pastimes for both the vigorous and the laid back outdoorsman.

At the Old Rhinebeck Aerodome, Stone Church and Norton Avenue, aviation buffs can watch wide-eyed as World War I dogfighters and barnstormers take to the skies and marvel at the turn-of-the-20th-century planes in the aerodome’s museum. Bi-plane rides over the Hudson River take place from June to October, weather-permitting and on a first-come, first-serve basis. (845-752-3200)

At Southlands Foundation, 5771 Route 9, horseback riders, cross-country skiers and hikers can trounce across almost 200 acres along the Hudson. Southlands also gives horseback riding lessons and pony rides throughout the year. (845-876-4862)

Further south on Route 9 in Staatsburg golfers can putter around on the second oldest course in the U.S., Dinsmore, weather permitting, of course. (845-889-4071)

With its close proximity to Hyde Park and the world-renowned Culinary Institute of America, Rhinebeck has produced a bounty of award-winning, Zagat-rated restaurants. At the French restaurant Le Petit Bistro at 8 Market Street the CIA-trained chef creates such succulent delicacies as veal francaise, scallops with crushed black peppercorns and escargot. For the second consecutive year Le Petit Bistro has won the award for “Best French Restaurant in the Hudson Valley.” (845-876-7400)

Around the corner at 9 Mill Street Calico Restaurant and Patisserie serves Euro-American cuisine in an intimate bistro setting. Rated an “outstanding restaurant” by Zagat Survey, Calico produces dishes such as roasted Long Island duck with maple chipotle glaze and delicious desserts such as flourless hazelnut torte and hand-dipped Chambord and Frangelico truffles. (845-876-2749)

Hungry travelers may also be tantalized by Terrapin, offering entrees for both the carnivore and vegetarian, at 37 Montgomery Street (845-876-3330), 40 West with its eclectic American menu at 40 West Market Street (845-876-2214) and the regional American cuisine of the Traphagen Restaurant, located inside the Beekman Arms (845-876-1766). So many good restaurants, all in one community.

If dining at an extraordinary restaurant doesn’t relieve the visiting food enthusiast’s cravings, a day-long, hands-on, adult-education course at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park may satisfy his hunger. Classes take place on weekends and range in subject from knife skills and sauces to classical French cooking and holiday baking. All students receive a complimentary lunch in the CIA’s dining hall, a chef’s toque and a CIA apron. (800-888-7850)

After class budding cooks can drop by Rhinebeck’s Warren Cutlery, 3584 Route 9G, and stock up on knives, saucepans and an array of high-end kitchen supplies. (845-876-3444) For fresh produce, artisanal breads, local honey and sundry other foods, head to the Rhinebeck Farmer’s Market, held every Sunday on East Market Street from May through November.

Those “foodies” hoping to quench a different thirst can hop into their cars and onto the Dutchess Wine Trail. The trail consists of three wineries – Alison, Clinton and Millbrook – all within a half hour from Rhinebeck and all sponsoring tours and wine tastings year-round. Information on the trail and the participating wineries can be found online at www.dutchesswinetrail.com.

After a busy weekend of sight-seeing, shopping, cooking, dining and romping in the great outdoors, a day of relaxation sounds quite appealing. A trip to Haven, the day spa at 6464 Montgomery Street, may be exactly what the tired tourist needs. (845-876-7369)

If Swedish massages, body wraps and reflexology fail to rejuvenate, spending a few hours in the comfort of Upstate Films, Rhinebeck’s award winning independent movie theater at 6415 Montgomery Street, may prove both restful and enriching. Upstate Films occasionally hosts discussions and lectures by film directors, writers and editors. (845-876-2515)

Fans of music, dance and drama may opt for a refreshing performance by the Rhinebeck Chamber Music Society (845-876-2810) or at the Center for Performing Arts at Rhinebeck on Route 308. (845-876-3080) Ten minutes from Rhinebeck in Annandale-on-the-Hudson Bard College sponsors concerts, operas, films and dance performances at its new, Frank Gehry-designed Fisher Arts Center. (845-758-7900)

No matter what the taste or preferred pace, Rhinebeck offers something for every traveler in any season.