Well Worth the Wait
Published in the Chicago Tribune, LA Times, Pittsburgh Tribune Review, Washington Times, Memphis Daily News in October 2009
“Stir
constantly with a wooden spoon until the cornmeal thickens, about 30 to
45 minutes.” Those instructions have daunted countless would-be
polenta makers. Who wants to stand over a steaming pot for
45 minutes, stirring cornmeal non-stop? No doubt anyone who has
discovered the tastiness and versatility of this savory comfort food
would, that’s who.
A staple of Northern Italian cuisine, modern polenta dates back to the
mid 17th century. It was during this time that the Venetians
introduced American corn to the region. Prior to the 1600s
a variation of polenta was reputedly made using chestnut flour while
another version may have existed that employed barley.
Cooked in an unlined copper kettle, the combination of yellow cornmeal,
or ground corn, and water was ceaselessly stirred until a thick mush
formed. To test for doneness, the cook would insert her
wooden spoon in the center of the mixture. If the spoon stood up
on its own, without falling over or shifting its position, the polenta
was done.
Once finished, the polenta was either served immediately in its
porridge-like state or spooned out of the pot, spread out on a flat
surface to cool and solidify and then cut into squares. The
pieces would then be grilled or fried and paired up with seafood,
vegetables or a sauce.
An extremely adaptable food, polenta was offered as a first course,
side and even an entrée. When teamed with spicy sausages or
sweet syrup or preserves, it became a hearty
breakfast.
Today cooks vary the ways that they create this dish. “Every
region in Italy has a different way of preparing polenta.
Normally in the south it is more fluid and yellow as it’s made from
corn flour. In the north of Italy it is solid and thick as a cake
and either yellow or white from corn flour or black from buckwheat
flour,” says Paolo Berton, an ardent cook and IT professional who
resides in Rome. Paolo employs cornmeal and a traditional copper
pot when cooking polenta, he says.
Along with switching the type of meal, cooks may opt for fine or coarse
grain. Coarse-grained cornmeal will create a more robust,
flavorful polenta.
Likewise, they could opt for
instant polenta, which will not possess the rich taste of the
slow-cooked but will save valuable time in the kitchen.
Instant works best when combined with full-flavored ingredients such as
sausages, pancetta or a zesty sauce. The heartiness of these
ingredients compensates for instant polenta’s relative
blandness.
Another deviation is to bake,
rather than simmer, the cornmeal mixture. With this method the
ingredients are cooked on the stovetop for 15 minutes. The
polenta is then either left in the oven-safe pot and covered with a lid
or tumbled into dish and covered with foil. It is then slid into
a pre-heated oven and baked at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 to 45
minutes, stirring every so often to ensure even baking.
To add a little gusto to the
dish, cooks could substitute chicken, pork or beef stock for
water. They could incorporate finely chopped onions,
shallots or garlic into the simmering polenta or mix in grated Parmesan
or Gruyere, crumbled gorgonzola or chunks of fontina cheese once the
polenta has cooked. A dab of salted butter, sauté of
wild mushrooms or coating of tomato sauce similarly bring a bit of
excitement to the finished offering.
Although polenta is delicious on
its own, it can also compliment a variety of delectable foods.
Stewed, braised or roasted meats, grilled fish and shellfish and
roasted fowl all couple well with it. When working with
meats and fish, be sure to reserve some of their cooking juices so that
the liquid can be used as a light sauce for the polenta.
Additionally, polenta can serve
as a stand-in for such basic ingredients as pasta in lasagna.
Just spread out, cool and cut the cooked polenta into strips.
Place the strips in a baking dish and cover with cheese, meat or
vegetables and tomato sauce and bake.
When left in its soft, mush-like
state, polenta makes an appetizing alternative to mashed
potatoes. Mound the polenta onto dinner plates, pour chicken or
beef gravy over top and serve alongside warm, sliced chicken breast or
roast beef. Outstanding!
Soft Cheesy Polenta
Serves 4
This is a basic soft polenta recipe with a little cheese and chicken stock added for flavor.
2 cups water
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons salted butter
2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ tablespoon ground black pepper
In a large saucepan bring the water and chicken stock to a boil.
Slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring with a wooden spoon as you add
it. Reduce the heat to low and continue stirring for about 30
minutes or until the polenta is extremely thick and the spoon can
support itself in the pan.
Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter, Parmesan cheese and ground black pepper. Serve immediately.
Mediterranean Polenta Triangles
Serves 4 to 6
For the polenta:
3 ¾ cups water
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus 2 to 3 tablespoons for frying
1 cup instant polenta
For the topping:
1 (14 ½) ounce can of diced tomatoes, drained and with juice reserved in separate bowl
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
¾ teaspoon dried oregano
¾ teaspoon dried thyme
1 ½ teaspoons fresh, chopped parsley or ¾ teaspoon dried parsley
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
In a large saucepan bring the water to a boil. Add the salt and 1
tablespoon of olive oil. Slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring with a
wooden spoon as you add it. Reduce the heat to medium and
continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens,
about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and spoon the polenta into
a rectangular, lightly oiled, 2-quart baking dish. Allow the
polenta to cool and solidify.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl mix together the tomatoes, garlic, oil,
lemon juice, oregano, thyme, parsley and pepper. Depending on how
thick you want the topping to be, add 2 to 4 tablespoons of the
reserved tomato juice to the mixture and stir together.
Once the polenta is firm, cut it into triangles about 2 inches in
diameter at the base. (You can do this by first cutting the
polenta into a rectangle and then slicing it diagonally to make 2
triangles.)
In a non-stick frying pan heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive
oil. Place several polenta triangles in the pan and fry on both
sides until golden brown. Remove and arrange the cooked polenta
on a large plate or platter. Repeat these steps with the
remaining triangles.
Spoon the topping over the fried polenta and serve immediately.
Grilled Polenta with Sautéed Mushrooms
Serves 4
4 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
10 ounces cremini mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed
1 shallot, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
olive oil, for brushing onto the polenta squares
In a large saucepan bring the water to a boil. Add the
salt. Slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring with a wooden spoon
as you add it. Reduce the heat to low and continue stirring for
about 30 minutes or until the polenta is extremely thick and the spoon
can support itself in the pan. Remove from the heat and spoon the
polenta into a rectangular, lightly oiled, 2-quart baking dish.
Allow the polenta to cool and solidify.
While the polenta is cooling, pre-heat the grill. In a
medium-sized frying or sauté pan heat the butter. Add the
mushrooms and sauté over medium heat until slightly
softened. Add the shallots, salt and pepper and continue
cooking over medium until mushrooms are soft. Remove pan from the
heat and set aside.
Cut the polenta into 2-inch squares. Brush each side of the
squares with olive oil to prevent sticking and place the squares onto a
sheet of tin foil. Grill the polenta until lightly browned
on one side, about 5 to 10 minutes. Carefully flip over the
polenta squares and grill on the other side for the same amount of time.
Place the grilled polenta onto a platter. Top each piece with a spoonful of mushrooms and serve.
© 2009, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.