Take a Stab at Kebabs

Published in the Chicago Tribune, St. Louis Post-Dispatch, South Florida Sun-Sentinel in July 2009

When contemplating a different offering for your barbeque, consider grilling kebabs for your next meal. One of the oldest cooking techniques in existence, the art of grilling meat on a skewer is attributed to medieval Turkish soldiers who used their swords to cook over campfires. As the Ottoman Empire grew, the popularity of this technique spread across the Mediterranean and Middle East, eventually conquering the world.

Every country seems to boast of its own kebab recipe. These vary according to the size of meat or fish grilled, marinade used, and name given.

In India folks eat tikka, chunks of chicken soaked in yogurt, coriander, garam masala and other spices and then cooked on rods. The French dine on brochettes while diners in Russia and Armenia consume shashlik. In Greece kebabs come in the form of souvlaki, large lamb or chicken cubes marinated in oil, lemon juice and oregano before being lanced alongside onions or green peppers and grilled. Across Southeast Asia satay, small pieces of chicken, pork, goat, beef or fish macerated in fish and soy sauces, sugar, lime juice and spices, remain all the rage.

Most kebab recipes are quite simple. Cut a piece of beef, chicken, lamb or firm-fleshed fish into one-inch cubes. Allow the cubes to steep in a marinade for at least 30 minutes.
Once they’ve finished marinating, skewer the cubes, along with optional chunks of onions, eggplant, peppers or mushrooms, on metal or bamboo sticks and grill them over hot charcoal. If using bamboo sticks, remember to soak them in water first to prevent burning.

The cooked kebabs are drizzled with lemon juice or olive oil or accompanied by a sauce. Paired with fresh pita, lettuce, tomato and a yogurt dressing, they become a filling sandwich. Laid across a bed of rice or mixed greens, they make a delightful entree. Talk about easy!

One dish defying this simplicity is the Adana kebab. Originating in the south of Turkey, this kebab consists of a mixture of minced beef and aromatics such as cumin, cayenne pepper, black pepper, dried oregano and mint.

Kneaded into a dough-like consistency, the meat gets formed into a fat, cylindrical shape. It is then slid onto a decorative sword – think of the beef as being the sword’s sheath – and grilled in one piece.

Once the kebab has finished cooking, the meat and sword are taken to the table where the latter is “unsheathed.” The kebab is then divvied up among the dazzled diners.

Some cooks claim that dramatic presentation is what makes an outstanding kebab. Others swear by zesty marinades. Yet, many more vouch for the companion sauces.

The complexity of flavors in kebab sauces belies the simplicity of their ingredients. The spicy peanut dressing present with any satay consists of peanut butter, soy sauce, brown sugar and lime juice. Creamy tzatziki, which habitually tops souvlaki and Turkish kebabs, requires only yogurt, cucumber, garlic, chopped dill and lemon juice. Although uncomplicated, these sauces definitely dress up their respective kebabs.

Before firing up the grill for those tried and true hot dogs, hamburgers and steaks, consider cobbling together an assortment of kebabs. Easy, fast and delectable to eat, they’re sure to be a hit at your next barbeque.

Adana Kebab
From Ghillie Basan’s Classic Turkish Cookery (Tauris Parke Books, 1997).
Serves 4

1 pound minced ground beef
2 teaspoons spice mix
1 egg white
salt
2 sword skewers (available online or at some specialty cookware shops)
1 cup Greek yogurt, optional

Spice Mix:
½ teaspoon cayene pepper
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried mint

Preheat the grill.

Knead the meat with the spices in a bowl. Add the egg white and a little salt and continue to knead until the mixture resembles a dough.

Wipe the skewers with oil. Divide the meat mixture in two thick sausage shapes. Push the skewer through the middle of one, lengthwise, and squeeze the mixture up and down the skewer, spreading it evenly. Repeat with the other skewer.

Grill for 3 to 4 minutes until cooked. Serve immediately with yogurt.

Tuna Satay
Serves 4

1 1/3 pounds albacore tuna, cut into 1 to 2-inch strips
¼ cup lime juice
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed using a mortar and pestle
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 clove garlic, grated
peanut sauce, for serving

For the peanut sauce:
½ cup peanut butter
2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon lime juice
4 teaspoons light brown sugar
¼ cup hot water

Mix together the lime juice, olive oil, coriander seeds, cumin, turmeric and garlic in a medium-sized bowl. Add the tuna and toss to coat all the pieces. Refrigerate and allow the tuna to marinate for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Preheat the grill. Grease a sheet of tin foil with olive oil and set aside.

While the tuna is marinating, whisk together the peanut butter, soy sauce, lime juice and brown sugar. Slowly add the hot water until the peanut sauce has reached a smooth, creamy consistency.

Using metal skewers, insert the tuna lengthwise on each skewer, leaving a little room between each strip of fish. Place the tin foil on the hot grill and then put the skewers on top of the foil. Grill for approximately 5 minutes or until the fish is cooked. Remove the skewers from the grill and place on a platter. Serve immediately with the peanut dipping sauce.

Chicken Souvlaki
Serves 4

1 ½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
2 teaspoons oregano
tzatziki, for serving
4 individual pitas, optional
2 tomatoes, sliced, optional

For the tzatziki
8 ounces plain yogurt, excess water drained
½ cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
1 clove garlic, grated
¼ teaspoon dried mint
dash of salt

Mix together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and oregano in a small bowl.

Place the chicken cubes in a medium-sized bowl and pour the marinade over top. Cover the bowl, place it in the refrigerator and allow the chicken to marinate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk together the yogurt, cucumber, garlic, dried mint and salt and refrigerate the tzatziki.

Preheat the grill.

Using metal skewers, insert the cubes of chicken lengthwise on each skewer, leaving a little room between each chunk of meat. Place the skewers on the hot grill and cook for approximately 5 to 10 minutes or until chicken is completely cooked. Remove the skewers from the grill and place on a platter. Serve immediately with a side of tzatziki sauce and optional pita and tomato.

© 2009, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.

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