Traveling - Lambertville, New Jersey
Published in Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Magazine Fall 2007

Spend
a few hours in Lambertville, New Jersey and you may feel as though you
have slipped away to a vibrant, New England coastal town. Nestled on
the east bank of the Delaware across from New Hope, Pennsylvania,
this18th century river community abounds with historic, Federal-style
buildings, well-stocked antique and art shops, outstanding seafood and
endless waterfront views.
Settled in 1732 by inn and
ferry owner Emanuel Coryell, the village was originally called
Coryell’s Ferry and encompassed both sides of the river. In
deference to Captain John Lambert, who built a stone tavern and inn
known as the Lambertville House at 32 Bridge Street, the New Jersey
settlement adopted the name Lambertville in 1810. That same year
a bridge connecting New Jersey to Pennsylvania was erected over the
Delaware, allowing faster, safe passage between the states.
Twenty years later construction of the Delaware and Raritan Canal would
commence and forever change life for the region.
The
inauguration of the canal in 1834 and the Belvidere-Delaware Railroad,
running adjacent to the canal and through the town, in 1854
caused industrial and financial booms. Mills engaged in
making rubber, locomotive
products and wagon wheels sprung up all over Lambertville. The
mills’ success and resultant affluence spurred the erection of stately
homes, mansions, and public buildings that have retained their majesty
well into the 21st century.
While the mills may have
closed and the railroad tracks overgrown, Lambertville has held onto
much of its 19th century prosperity and charm. Re-inventing
itself as “the Antique Capital of New Jersey,” the picturesque town now
draws in vacationers as well as avid antique collectors. Wander
the tree-lined streets and you will encounter countless stores devoted
to paintings, porcelains, glassware, furniture, rare books and
architectural iron work from the 17th through the 20th century.
One
such purveyor is James Curran Antiques and Restoration (202 N. Union
Street), which specializes in 17th to 20th century English
furniture. Curran makes several trips to Europe each year to
hand-select furnishings from English estate sales and auction
houses.
Down the street from James Curran, Broadmoor
Antiques (6 N. Union) and Lovrinic Antiques (15 N. Union) carry fine
furniture and decorative arts. David and Karen Dutch Antiques (22
Bridge), Coryell Street Antiques (51 Coryell), and Kline’s Court
Antiques (11 Kline’s Court) are among the multitude of dealers, all
within easy walking distance of one another.
Located
1 ½ miles south of downtown Lambertville, the Golden Nugget Antique
Flea Market (1850 River Road; 609-397-0811) is home to more than 60
indoor and 200 outdoor antique vendors. In existence since 1962
the Golden Nugget is open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 6
AM to 4 PM year-round.
In addition to its thriving antiques
trade Lambertville supports a vibrant arts community that celebrates
the creativity of local and international artists alike. The
Howard Mann Art Center at the intersection of N. Main and Coryell
showcases the works of 100 renowned artists, including Picasso and
Dali. Located in the town’s old 5 and Dime on N. Union Street, A
Mano Gallery (215-862-5122) dedicates itself to contemporary American
crafts.
In a restored hosiery mill at 333 N. Main Street, Rago
Arts and Auction Center (609-397-9374) focuses on 20th century
decorative arts. David Rago, Suzanne Perrault and John Sollo, all
art experts at the Center, not only have written books in their fields
but also lend their expertise to the PBS series “Antiques
Roadshow.”

Not limited to the visual arts, Lambertville
has a non-profit, professional ballet company, the Roxey Ballet (243 N.
Union Street; 609-397-7616), which runs workshops, master classes,
lecture demonstrations and performances throughout the year. Its
Riverside Symphonia performs yearly concerts at the Church of St. John
the Evangelist (44 Bridge Street) while the Downtown Performing Arts
Center on South Union hosts public classes and shows.
Unsurprising
for a town of its age, Lambertville teems with historical sites.
In the small cemetery next to the First Presbyterian Church (31 North
Union) lies the grave of one of George Washington’s pallbearers,
Revolutionary War Lieutenant George Coryell. Revolutionary War
spy Sam Holcombe also rests here.
James Wilson
Marshall, a leader in the 1849 California gold rush, called the
yellow-painted brick, 1816 house at 62 Bridge Street his childhood
home. The Marshall House Museum (609-397-0770) concerns itself
with local lore as well as furnishings and quilts from the
1830’s. The Lambertville Historical Society makes its
headquarters there and operates the museum on Saturdays and Sundays
from April through October. It gives guided walking tours on the
first Sunday of each month.
The 19th century train station,
Lambertville Station (11 Bridge Street), now welcomes travelers of the
culinary kind. Converted into a restaurant featuring American
cuisine, the 1867 stone station evokes the past through its elegant
etched glass, brass light fixtures and polished oak woodwork.
Along with providing views of the canal and railroad, it delivers a
unique take on such timeless fare as Chesapeake Bay lump crab cakes,
pan-seared Ahi tuna, Black Angus meatloaf and rosemary-Dijon mustard
encrusted rack of lamb. Open 365 days per year, the Lambertville
Station serves a Sunday, champagne brunch in its Riverside Ballroom
from 10 AM to 3 PM. Call 609-397-8300 for
reservations.
At Hamilton’s Grill Room (8
Coryell Street; 609-397-4343) you can dine on delicious contemporary
Mediterranean cuisine indoors or alfresco. Situated across the
courtyard from The Boat House cocktail bar, this BYOB wows gourmands
with such dishes as slate-grilled bronzino with black bean sauce,
grilled tuna with avocado puree, roasted pork chops with
apple-cornbread stuffing and grilled seasonal vegetables with
couscous. The menu changes seasonally and concentrates not only
on fresh seafood but also on meat and game
entrees.
For a quick bite, check out
Ennis’ Market (5 N. Union), which has a deli as well as pastries, ice
cream, coffee and cold drinks. The Lambertville Trading Company
(43 Bridge Street) boasts of a full coffee bar along with pastries,
muffins, cookies and gifts. Buck’s Ice Cream and Espresso (25
Bridge) likewise sells coffee, dessert, bagels and ice
cream.
At Baker’s Treat (9B Church Street) you can
splurge on a gourmet cake or other sweet and feel good about your
indulgence as the proceeds benefit women in addiction recovery
programs. Baker’s Treat also supplies hands-on training and
employment to recovering women.
The area’s only microbrewery,
River Horse Brewery (80 Lambert Lane; 609-397-7776), opens its doors
for tours and sampling from noon to five seven days per week.
River Horse’s products, including Hop Hazard Pale Ale and Belgian
Frostbite Winter Ale, are available throughout the Mid Atlantic, in
parts of New England and in beer-of-the-month clubs.
After
all this noshing a brisk walk, hike, or bike, canoe, or kayak ride may
be in order. Pedestrians and bikers can start their journeys on
the Delaware-Raritan Canal Park path right behind the Lambertville
Station on Bridge Street. The 30-mile, primarily crushed gravel
trail stretches from Frenchtown to Trenton. Parking and another
access point can be found on Route 29, just north of Lambertville, at
the Holcombe-Jimison Farmstead
Museum.
If
water sports sound more appealing, Mountain River Outfitters (287 S.
Main; 609-397-3366) rents canoes and kayaks and gives seven-mile,
guided river tours starting from Bulls Island Recreation Area in nearby
Stockton. Positioned on the canal’s bike path, the store
additionally rents bicycles and has gear and accessories for sale.
Lambertville
awards overnight visitors with an assortment of noteworthy
lodgings. Listed on the National Registry of Historic Places, the
Lambertville House (32 Bridge Street; 888-867-8859) features 26
guestrooms with gas fireplaces, private balconies, and free Internet
access. The Inn at Lambertville Station (11 Bridge Street;
609-397-4400) offers 45 antique-filled rooms overlooking the Delaware,
complimentary breakfast and Internet service.
Known locally as
the Massey Mansion, the York Street House Bed and Breakfast (42 York
Street; 888-398-3199) has served as a private home, boarding house and
movie set. The 1909 manor house now acts as a well-appointed,
six-room refuge, lavishing lodgers with free Internet, electric
fireplaces, homemade cookies, tea, hot cocoa and a full breakfast in
the cherry-paneled dining room. The Federal-style Bridgestreet
House Bed and Breakfast (75 Bridge; 800-897-2503) pampers guests with
five cozy rooms, continental breakfast and evening wine and cheese.
On
the east bank of the Delaware sits a treasure-trove of historic sites,
antiques stores, fine food, arts and more. Come to Lambertville
and see firsthand all that this quaint river town has in store.