Beyond the Bridges - Funky 'lil Kitchen

Published in Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Magazine Spring 2007

After several years of living in Manhattan I reluctantly made a move to suburban Philadelphia and to what I presumed would be a lackluster choice of dining options. While in New York, I had become accustomed to cutting edge cuisine, to food that leapt off the plate with sparkling presentation and taste. Where I would find such palate-pleasing fare in the suburbs mystified me. 

Thanks to the Funky ‘lil Kitchen, in the Philadelphia outpost of Pottstown, Penn., my search for delectable delights has ended. Opened in 2004, the 28-seat, BYOB restaurant serves up fresh, New American cuisine in an atmosphere befitting its name. With charcoal gray walls accented by white wainscoting, recessed fuchsia lava lamps, and a sleek clock created from silverware the Funky ‘lil Kitchen evokes a feeling of hip urbanity. Pink and white starlight chandeliers and dramatic purple drapery enveloping the entryway further add to that sense of au courant sophistication. The restaurant entices diners to slip away from mundane suburban eateries and slide into a cool, culinary oasis.

Living up to his restaurant’s appellation in dishes as well as in decor, chef-owner Michael Falcone whips up such innovative appetizers as roasted pear bruschetta paired with Valdeon blue cheese and walnut pesto and lobster macaroni and cheese dotted with roasted cherry tomatoes, scallions, and toasted bread crumbs. His succulent duck confit hash topped with a fried egg and Boursin cream is a perennial favorite.

Falcone shies away from the expected, fortifying waiting customers not with the tired bread-and-butter combo but instead with miniature flower pots filled with crudite. A garlic-white bean dip accompanies these treats. Complimentary amuse bouche offerings include refreshing strawberry-orange shooters and cucumber slices topped with smoked trout and creme fraiche.

With an emphasis on seasonal, local ingredients Falcone’s entrees are equally original. During the colder months he turns to braising and crafts hearty meals of pork tenderloin with beer braised sauerkraut, roasted potatoes, and green apple mustard as well as braised short ribs with horseradish cream of wheat and roasted carrots. In the summer lighter fare such as the cleverly named grilled airline chicken breast – a tender breast with wing flying skyward off the plate – join pistachio couscous, haricot vert and goat cream cheese in delighting diners.

Strict vegetarians need not fret over a lack of options. Vegetarian dinners can be made-to-order. More lax, non-meat eaters will also appreciate the variety of seafood here. Potato-encrusted Maine perch resting atop a bed of Napa cabbage and savory salmon cakes presented with a dollop of lemon crema, spinach gnocchi, and sautéed vegetables prove to be delicious choices.

Sweets lovers will anticipate ending their evenings with such desserts as chai pot de creme, white chocolate and dried cranberry bread pudding, or, what I consider to be the restaurant’s signature dessert, a hemp brownie. Topped with a rich chocolate ganache and delicate hemp seeds, the luscious brownie comes on a long, rectangular, white plate with a splash of mixed berry coulis and a thirst-quenching, cold bottle of milk.

The restaurant’s menu changes every two weeks. Entrees range from $19 to $26.

By dishing out delicious dinners Tuesday through Saturday as well as hosting private parties, lectures, beer or wine pairing nights and themed events, Falcone and the Funky ‘lil Kitchen have established an enthusiastic following.

“Michael is brilliant!” gushes Anita Guris, an interior designer, self-proclaimed foodie, and longtime fan of the Funky lil’ Kitchen.

Guris says that Falcone has a talent of blending different foods. “It’s like a party in your mouth. Every flavor gives you joy. He makes me want to lick the plate clean,” she says.

Her husband Paul agrees. “Every combination works here. It just doesn’t get any better than this,” he says.

Northeast Philadelphia resident Elliot Glickman finds the drive to Pottstown worth his effort. “The food is eclectic, giving a new twist to old ideas. Plus, I love the excellent presentation, quality of service, friendly atmosphere, and great blend of flavors,” he says.

The talented yet humble Michael Falcone graciously accepts his clients’ kudos. A graduate of the Restaurant School, the 36-year-old Philadelphia native came to cooking later in life. He had already begun a successful career in business when he decided to change paths and go to culinary school. At 25 he was the oldest person in his program and one of a handful of students without hands-on restaurant experience.

Eleven years later Falcone holds an impressive resume. Prior to opening the Funky ‘lil Kitchen, he worked at Figs and Adriatic in Center City , Sonoma (now Derrick’s) in Manayunk and 110 Restaurant along the Mainline in Wayne. He presently cooks at such charity events as the Delaware Valley Liver Foundation Benefit and participates in city-sponsored culinary happenings such as “Philly Cooks” and “The Book and the Cook.” He has also taught “guest chef” cooking classes at Williams-Sonoma in King of Prussia.

In the eyes of gourmands his most remarkable accomplishment remains the Funky ‘lil Kitchen. As Falcone says of his restaurant, it provides “a taste of the city in the country.” It is welcome, much-desired taste of fine, New American cuisine.

Located at 232 King Street in Pottstown, the Funky ‘lil Kitchen serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5 until 9 PM. During the summer 18-seat courtyard dining and bocce courts are also available. For reservations call 610-326-7400.