Faraway Favorites
Published in VegNews August 2008
Notice
a faraway look in my eyes and, undoubtedly, you’ve caught me dreaming
of the white-washed houses, soft, sandy beaches, and deep blue and
gentle sea of the Mediterranean. When yearning for such countries
as Greece, Turkey and Italy, my mind invariably drifts to this region’s
fresh and vibrant cuisine. Visions of glistening, grilled
eggplants, piquant, green olives, and zesty tomato-and-pepper salads
cause my stomach to rumble. Thoughts of light yet luscious
anise-infused cookies, cinnamon-scented couscous and soft, honeyed
apricots make my pulse race. Imagining the Mediterranean not only
stirs my desire for travel, it propels me to eat!
It is the
delicate desserts that tempt me most. In this land the final
course can be as involved as flaky and fragile phyllo dough layered and
filled with syrup, grated fruits and chopped nuts or as uncomplicated
as a sliver of seasonal fruit. Diners walk away from the table feeling
satisfied but not overstuffed. Good thing, too. On
sun-drenched days when the temperature tops 110 degrees, overindulging
only makes me feel languid and lazy.
In Greece, suppers end
simply, with slices of watermelon or bowls of fresh, mixed fruits. When
confections are on the menu, they remain unfussy, and often
fruit-based, affairs. Desserts such as baked figs, whole apples
in syrup, and cherry spoon sweets, preserves served on spoons in the
customary gesture of hospitality, all grace the dinner table.
Not
to be outdone by its neighbor to the east, Italy boasts an array of
effortless and healthful delicacies. Craving a succulent, chilled
treat on a sultry summer afternoon? Follow the locals’ suit and
cool off with a semi-frozen, fruity granita. For an utterly
simple and delicious repast, consider strawberries soaked in balsamic
vinegar. These palate-pleasers are a good source of vitamin C.
From
North Africa comes a more complex offering: sweet couscous.
Dotted with iron-rich dates, raisins, toasted almonds, and dried
apricots, this grain-based favorite offers an assortment of sensory
thrills. The sharp snap of the almonds provides a pleasant, and
audible, change from the velvety softness of the steamed fruits and
couscous. The gentle spiciness of cinnamon relieves the headiness
of maple syrup, a non-traditional but no less delectable sweetener for
this dish.
If wishing to round out the evening with a drink, I
look to Turkey and its bold Türk kahvesi. Introduced by traveling
dervishes in the 16th century, the strong, black, foamy coffee remains
a popular way to finish a meal. When seeking a milder beverage, I reach
for a steaming glass of Moroccan mint tea. Easy to prepare, the tea
consists of sprigs of fresh mint, green tea leaves, hot water, and
sugar. The digestive properties of mint and antioxidants in green tea
make this drink a refreshing, restorative closure to any feast.
Whether
hankering a wholesome sweet, I look to the Mediterranean and all its
tasty treats. From frozen granitas and simmering coffees to
nut-studded couscous and macerated fruits, this region hosts a bounty
of light, healthful and spectacular desserts.
Greek Baked Figs
This
dessert tastes wonderful using either brown or green figs, though brown
are larger in size, contain fewer seeds, and are in season from May
through December.
Serves 4
8 fresh, ripe figs, destemmed
1 tablespoon plus 1and one-half teaspoons of a light, fruity red wine, such as a Beaujolais
2 teaspoons of agave nectar, plus one teaspoon for serving
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Using a pairing knife, score the top of the figs in a cross-like pattern.
2.
Place the figs upright on a baking sheet and spoon the wine and the two
teaspoons of agave nectar over the figs. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes,
until the fruit is juicy and bubbling but not browned.
3.
Remove the figs from the oven. Place two figs onto each dessert plate
and drizzle the remaining agave nectar over the fruit. Serve
immediately.
Nectar Poached Apricots
When poached in
agave nectar, these apricots will blossom in color, fragrance and
flavor. The same method can be used for poaching other stone
fruits such as peaches, nectarines or plums.
Serves 4 to 6
1 cup water
¼ cup agave nectar
1 vanilla bean, sliced open lengthwise
1 pound ripe, firm apricots, halved and pitted
1.
In a medium saucepan, combine water, agave nectar, and vanilla bean.
Bring the ingredients to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer covered for 5
minutes.
2. Add the apricots and cover. Simmer until the apricots are just tender, about 5 minutes.
3.
Remove the apricots and place them in a bowl. Turn up the heat on the
saucepan and allow the poaching liquid to come to a boil. Cook until
the liquid has reduced and thickened.
4. Strain the syrup and pour over the apricots. Allow to cool before serving.
Limoncello Granita
Tart
yet sweet, cool yet oh-so-hot, this Italian liqueur granita serves up a
host of tantalizing contradictions. If you prefer a non-alcoholic
version, simply replace the limoncello with the same amount of chilled
water.
Serves 6 to 8
1 ¼ cups sugar
1 cup + ¾ cup of cold water, divided
1 ¾ cups fresh lemon juice
Zest of 4 organic lemons
½ cup + two tablespoons limoncello
1.
In a saucepan, combine sugar and 1 cup water. Simmer over medium or
medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the
mixture becomes syrupy.
2. Remove the pan from the burner and add the lemon zest, juice, and 3/4 cup water. Mix together, and stir in the limoncello.
3.
Pour the liquid into a large, shallow baking dish. Place the pan in the
freezer for a minimum of 8 hours. For the first 2 hours, remove the pan
every 20 to 40 minutes and stir the contents, making sure to scrape
down the sides of the dish and incorporate both the iced and
still-liquid granita.
5. Once the granita is completely frozen,
take a large spoon and scrape the top until a substantial portion has
been collected. Place the granita in a cocktail glass or bowl and serve.
Dried Fruit and Almond Couscous
The
traditional method of making couscous requires a couscoussier or
stockpot paired with a strainer and involves intermittently steaming,
wetting down and separating the grains, a process that takes close to
an hour. I simplify things by preparing instant couscous in a saucepan.
Otherwise, I would spend much of my evening hovering over a steamy
pot. On hot, time-pressed nights, who wants to expend that much
energy or work up that much sweat? Not me!
Serves 4 to 6
1 cup + 2 tablespoons water
1 cup couscous
1/3 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup dates, chopped
1/3 cup dried apricots, chopped
1/4 cup almonds, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon soy margarine
1/4 cup maple syrup
Cinnamon for dusting
1.
In a medium saucepan boil the water. Add the couscous, raisins, dates,
and apricots. Cover the saucepan and remove from heat. Let stand for 10
minutes.
2. In a small frying pan over medium heat, toast almonds until golden.
3.
In a large bowl combine cooked couscous and soy margarine. Rake your
fingers through the couscous, loosening the grains and incorporating
the margarine with the fruit.
4. Pour in the maple syrup and
gently stir. Add the toasted almonds and blend again. Dust the top with
cinnamon and serve.
Turkish Coffee
In Turkey, coffee
is brewed using a cevze, a small, wide-bottomed, pitcher-shaped vessel
with a long handle. Although specialty coffee and cookware shops do
sell cevzes or ibriks—the Greek word for the Turkish pot—a very small
saucepan will do the trick.
Serves 4
1 heaping tablespoon finely ground coffee
1 cup cold water
1.
In a small saucepan, combine the ground coffee and water and stir until
well mixed. Place over low heat and allow the ingredients to simmer for
roughly 3 minutes until the mixture starts to rise. Do not stir the
ingredients.
2. Once the liquid starts to rise and foam, remove
the saucepan from heat (do not allow the coffee to overflow). Let
mixture rest for 10 to 20 seconds, then return the saucepan to the
burner and leave on low heat until the coffee begins to rise again.
Remove from heat. Repeat steps a third time.
3. After the
third rising remove the saucepan from the heat and pour the coffee into
two demitasse cups. As the grounds will also be present in the cup,
allow them to settle before consuming.
Moroccan Mint Tea
A
symbol of hospitality, Moroccan mint tea is offered throughout the day
in homes, shops, and restaurants. To turn down a glass of tea would be
the height of rudeness. Considering the delicious taste and the
beautiful gold filigree glasses in which it is served, who would want
to?
Serves 8
4 cups water
2 green or, if not available, black tea teabags
Generous handful of fresh mint, leaves, and stems
¼ cup sugar
1.
In a tea kettle or medium saucepan, boil water. Place the teabags into
a medium-sized teapot. Remove the boiling water from the heat and pour
over the teabags.
2. Add the fresh mint and sugar to the teapot. Allow the mixture to steep for 5 minutes.
3. Stir the tea and pour into 4-ounce tea or juice glasses and serve.
Chef’s Tip
Strawberries & Balsamic
For
a simple and delicious dessert, add three tablespoons of good quality
Balsamic vinegar to two pints of cleaned and trimmed strawberries and
let soak for an hour. Serve alone, alongside sugar cookies, or atop soy
ice cream.
[sidebar]
Mediterranean Magic
The 1975
publication of How to Eat Well and Stay Well the Mediterranean Way
alerted the American public to the low-fat and fruit-, vegetable-, and
grain-rich diets of such countries as Greece, Spain, and Italy. Written
by the late University of Minnesota physiologist Ancel Keys and his
wife Margaret and based upon decades of Keys’ research into the
relationship between diet and coronary disease, the book supplied
hundreds of flavorful recipes. Keys also provided sound dietary
advice, including the call for a diet high in fiber and low in
saturated fat. By following this Mediterranean style of eating,
Americans would, he concluded, drastically reduce their risk of
cardiovascular disease.