Curry - The History of a Truly Global Cuisine

Invite friends over for Indian food and chances are they will expect to dine on a golden curry.   Based upon the ancient Tamil word “kari,” curry has become synonymous with a spicy, yellowish, stew-like dish. 
Yet, as its history and widespread influence indicate, it is far more than a catch-all phrase for a sultry, curry powder-laden stew.

For centuries curries have played a part in India’s culinary heritage.  Portuguese traders encountered these seasoned, sauce-based dishes as early as 1502 while Dutch seafarers of 1598 recounted in travel journals their experiences dining on India’s saucy and aromatic fare.

As it does today, the curry that these intrepid travelers ate would have differed depending upon region and cook.   Since no strict recipe existed, cooks based their curries upon what was seasonal, available and palatable to them.   As a result, some dishes would have contained chunks of meat while others would have showcased local fish, vegetables, or legumes or even just a savory gravy. 

What all had in common was the richly flavored, wet or paste-like sauce made of raw, freshly ground herbs and spices.   Spotlighting such regional seasonings as coriander, curry leaves, tamarind and turmeric, these fragrant meals were served alongside ample portions of rice or bread. 

Because no word in any of India’s 1,600 dialects existed for “curry,” these creations went by individual names.  Korma was a mild, yogurt- or cream-based, entrée and a perfect example of a “wet” curry.  Jalfrezi, peppery, stir-fried meat covered in a thick sauce, was the quintessential paste-like version. 

While countless explorers dined on these specialties, it was the 18th century British Empire that was credited for popularizing the zesty fare.  When colonial occupiers returned to England, they brought back an insatiable appetite for fiery Indian cuisine.  Ultimately, this craving would result in the mass production of the pulverized spice blend known as curry powder.

Since Indian cooks wouldn’t dream of employing the same set of seasonings for every dish, the British likewise received the blame for simplifying curry.  On British soil it was transformed from a fresh, complex offering that varied from kitchen to kitchen to a meat stew enlivened with a standard, processed blend of ground cumin, coriander, fenugreek, red peppers and turmeric.

British curries caught on like wildfire with one specific offering, chicken tikka masala, becoming, by the 21st century, England’s national dish. Most likely crafted by an Indian restaurateur, chicken tikka masala combined grilled, marinated chicken cubes with a hearty tomato-cream sauce.       

While the British altered curry on their shores, Indians living in countries as diverse as Kenya, Indonesia, Trinidad and Thailand began to tinker with their renowned viand.  Reflecting the culinary traditions and techniques of their adopted lands, their new curry recipes blended the best of multiple cuisines.

In Indonesia lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves gave curries a local flavor while scorching scotch bonnet peppers, chopped garlic and onion, parsley and thyme provided a Trinidadian touch to curries there.  

Thai curries featured a trio of hot, sweet and sour flavors.   To achieve this balance of contrasting tastes, a hand-pounded paste of chilies, shallots, garlic, lemongrass and ginger was seasoned with ground cumin and coriander.  Sautéed in coconut milk, fish sauce and tamarind paste, the resultant sauce had a uniquely Thai-Indian flare.

By the 19th century curries had even washed up on American shores.  Mary Randolph’s 1824 cookbook The Virginia Housewife or Methodical Cook included recipes for chicken and catfish curries with equal parts turmeric, coriander, cumin, ginger, nutmeg, mace and cayenne pepper to season them.

Today curry remains one of the most global foods in existence.  Widespread interest in hot and exotic cuisines partly explains its popularity.  The diversity of ingredients, flexibility of recipes and ease of preparation likewise account for its prevalence.

If making your own curry at home, keep in mind that pre-made curry powder quickly looses its potency.   For the best results, grind your own spices in a coffee or spice grinder.  Store any leftover curry blend in an airtight container for no longer than two months.

Yellow Lentil Curry
Serves 4

5 to 6 cups water
1 cup yellow lentils
1 tablespoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup olive oil
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1/3 cup plus one tablespoon chopped white onion
2 teaspoons ginger, minced
2 teaspoons green chili pepper, chopped
2 plum tomatoes, chopped
1/2 teaspoon red chili powder
handful fresh coriander, washed and chopped
2 whole, dried red chilies

In a large sauce pan bring the yellow lentils, turmeric, salt and 5 to 6 cups of water to a boil.  Skim the foam off the top, cover the pan with a lid and simmer over medium-low for roughly 1 hour.  When finished, the lentils will be soft and broken down.  Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

In a medium sauté pan heat the olive oil.  Add the cumin seeds, black mustard seeds, chopped onion, ginger, and green chilies.   Sauté until the onion browns.  Add the tomatoes and sauté until they have softened, about 1 minute.  Add the red chili powder and boiled lentils to the cooked onion-tomato mixture.  The resultant dish will be soupy but not runny.  Check and adjust the seasonings as needed.  Finish the dish with chopped coriander and whole red chilies.  Serve with a side of steamed basmati rice.

Chicken Tikka Masala
Serves 4

Note that the chicken will need to marinate for at least an hour in the refrigerator before being grilled so allow extra time for this recipe. 

For the chicken tikka
1 ½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes
½ cup plain yogurt
1 teaspoon salt
2 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and grated
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cumin
 ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 ½ teaspoons sweet paprika
½ teaspoon garam masala (available online and at Indian markets)
cooking spray or canola oil, for greasing the grill

For the masala sauce
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 ½ cups plum tomatoes, diced
3 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon garam masala
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup plain yogurt

In a large bowl mix together the ½ cup yogurt, salt, mashed garlic, ginger, turmeric, cumin, cayenne pepper, paprika and garam masala.  Add the chicken and toss to combine.   Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

When you are ready to grill the chicken, lightly oil and then preheat your grill.  At this time you can also prepare the sauce.

In a medium sauté or frying pan heat the canola oil.  Add the tomatoes, garlic, turmeric, cayenne pepper, paprika and cumin and sauté until softened.  Tumble the cooked ingredients into a blender.  Add the garam masala, salt and yogurt and blend until a thick puree has formed.  Return the sauce to the pan. 

Thread the chicken cubes onto metal or presoaked bamboo skewers, allowing some space between each cube so that the chicken cooks more evenly.  Place the skewers on the grill and, turning occasionally, cook until the cubes have browned slightly and the interior of the meat no longer appears pink.

Remove the chicken cubes from the skewers and place them in the pan with the sauce.  Toss the ingredients together and allow them to simmer on low heat for 5 minutes.  Serve over basamati rice.

Peppercorn Shrimp Curry
Adapated from Raghavan Iyer’s 660 Curries (Workman Publishing, 2008). 
Serves 4

½ teaspoon ground turmeric
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 can (13.5 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk
¼ cup fresh curry leaves, chopped (available at Indian and Asian food stores)
2 teaspoons black peppercorns, coarsely cracked

Place the turmeric and garlic in a bowl, add the shrimp and toss to combine.  Cover, refrigerate and allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

In a large frying or sauté pan heat the oil on medium high.  Add the mustard seeds, cover and cook until the seeds have stopped popping, about 30 seconds.  Tumble in the shrimp and sear on each side for approximately 30 seconds.  Add the coconut milk, curry leaves and peppercorns.  Bring the sauce to a boil and continue to cook, uncovered, until the shrimp have turned a pinkish-orange hue and have cooked through, about 5 minutes. 

Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to a platter or bowl and cover.   Continue cooking the sauce until it has thickened.   Pour the sauce over the shrimp and serve.  

© 2010, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.