Some Like It Cool

TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES

Several years ago I unwisely agreed to an August road trip across Turkey in a car without air-conditioning. I had visited the country previously, but that trip was in October, when daytime temperatures topped off at 80 and a pair of slick sunglasses was all that I needed to beat the heat. August, however, told a different tale. Somewhere along the sultry coast, the key chain thermometer dangling from my backpack registered 104 degrees.

As I sat sweltering in the passenger seat, watching people dine at tiny outdoor cafes, I wondered how they could look so comfortable, so perspiration free. I also questioned how on earth they could eat in all that heat. Searing temperatures had stolen my appetite, and yet I saw eager diners everywhere enjoying the local fare. I left Turkey convinced that cooks in hot countries must possess a culinary secret for helping diners cope with the heat. Back in New York, overcome by the simmering city, I went on a quest to learn the secrets for dining cool when the weather isn't.

A Turkish journalist from Istanbul, Amberin Zaman, told me about two refreshing Turkish dishes - patlicanli pilav and cacik - that are frequently consumed during the height of summer. Made with long-grain rice, small chunks of eggplant and slivers of green bell pepper, onion or tomato, patlicanli pilav or "eggplant rice" is a particular favorite. One reason for its popularity, Zaman explained, is that it is chilled before serving.

Another restorative dish - cucumber and yogurt-based cacik - is eaten as a salad, cold soup or an accompaniment to meat. Easy to create, the recipe calls for one diced cucumber, one cup of plain yogurt, two cloves of finely chopped garlic, two tablespoons of dried mint, a spring of fresh dill, a dash of salt and pepper, and a handful of ice cubes. Simply whisk the ingredients together and, before serving, toss the ice cubes into the bowl to chill.

"It not only has a cooling effect. The yogurt is widely thought to help kill bacteria that flourish in the summer months. The combination of yogurt with garlic is especially potent in this regard," said Zaman, who is a correspondent for The Economist. Variations of cacik appear on many Greek and Turkish-populated islands, as well as in Syria, Lebanon, Iraq, Iran, Bulgaria, India and parts of Africa.

I had sampled similar fare, tzatziki, when traveling through Greece. Seasoned in various ways with combinations of olive oil, vinegar, mint, parsley and yogurt, tzatziki appears alongside fresh pita bread and olives as an appetizer. I devoured it as a dip as well as a dressing for chicken souvlaki and gyros.

In Spain and Portugal it is chilled soup that soothes the overheated gastronome. While bright red gazpacho may be more familiar to Americans, garlic and almond-infused ajo blanco remains my favorite.

With ajo blanco I can banish the thought of hovering over a steaming stockpot. Like gazpacho, this simple, white soup requires only a blender or food processor to create. Refrigerated and served topped with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a few sliced grapes or dash of pimenton or paprika for color, it makes the perfect meal for nights when it's too warm to cook.

On another summer car journey, this time through southern France, I feverishly tracked down purveyors of sorbet. This energizing and non-fat, iced fruit puree has reputedly been dished out in France since the 17th century. Frequently served between appetizers and dinner entrees, the crisp, tart taste cleanses the palate and, on blistering days, cools the traveler.

A close relation to sorbet, Italian granita generally consists of about one part sugar to four parts water and/or fruit juice, coffee or wine. Unlike the velvety sorbet, which is prepared in an ice cream maker or frozen and then smoothed out in a blender, granita is stirred every 20 minutes or so while in the freezer to produce a coarse, crystalline texture.

Since granita is consumed throughout the day in Italy, I often splashed out on breakfasts of coffee granita and pastries while visiting. At the time I thought of granita at breakfast as a vacation indulgence. I later learned, though, that this is not an unusual way to start a summer day.

In many countries something as simple as fruit can be the ideal cool food. Carol Ritter, a nurse and former Peace Corps volunteer in Panama City, Panama, recalls the pleasure of biting into fresh watermelon, mangoes and pineapples on a stifling, Panamanian afternoon.

"With the heat and humidity it was pretty much summertime year-round, but with fruit vendors practically on every street corner we could always cool down with a nice piece of fruit," she said.

Likewise in Southeast Asia, produce provides an easy and inexpensive way to chill out. Mention the reddish-purple mangosteen to Tina Johnston and she will reminisce about the respite the soft, citrusy fruit gives from oppressive weather.

"Something about the mangosteen, which has white, lychee-like flesh, just cools the body completely," said Johnston, who has lived and worked in Indonesia and Malaysia, the native homes of the mangosteen.

Thanks to these insights, I no longer have to crank up my window air-conditioner or hang out on the supermarket frozen food aisle to feel cool. With a succulent slice of fresh fruit, a plate of chilled pilaf or a bowl of icy soup, I can be comfortable on the steamiest of afternoons.

LIMONCELLO GRANITA
If you love lemon, you'll adore this granita. The methods for serving this potent treat are many. Put it in a cocktail glass with a strip of lemon zest draped over the rim and serve it as a frozen aperitif. Dish it into little ramekins and present it as a palate cleanser between courses. Scoop it into bowls and serve as an adults-only dessert. If a non-alcoholic version is desired, simply replace the limoncello with the same amount of chilled water.

1 1/4 cups sugar
Zest of 4 washed, organic lemons
1 3/4 cups fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup plus two tablespoons limoncello

Place sugar and 1 cup cold water in a saucepan. Place pan on stovetop and, stirring frequently, simmer over medium-low heat until sugar has dissolved and mixture is syrupy. Remove pan from burner and add lemon zest, lemon juice and 3/4 cup water. Mix together then add limoncello, once again stirring to combine.

Pour liquid into a large, shallow pan. Place pan on a flat surface in the freezer and freeze for a minimum of 8 hours. For the first 2 hours remove pan every 20 to 40 minutes and stir contents, making sure to scrape down sides of dish and incorporate both iced and still-liquid granita. Once granita has frozen completely, take a large spoon or ice cream scoop and scrape top until a substantial portion has been collected. Place granita in a cocktail glass or bowl and serve. Serves 6 to 8.

EGGPLANT PILAF WITH TOMATOES
(Patlicanli Pilav)
2 eggplants
Salt
1 1/2 cups long-grain rice
1/2 cup olive oil, divided
1 onion, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 1/2 teaspoons allspice
1 cup diced tomato, either fresh or canned
Freshly ground black pepper

Using a vegetable peeler, remove lengthwise strips of eggplant peel so that eggplants appear to have stripes stretching from tip to tip. Cut eggplants into small chunks and place pieces on a cooling rack over sink or stack of paper towel. Sprinkle salt over cut eggplant and allow pieces to drain for 15 to 30 minutes.

Following instructions on package, pour 1 1/2 cups rice and recommended amount of water into a pan and cook over low heat until tender. (This will probably take 20 to 25 minutes.)

Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a large frying pan or Dutch oven. Pat excess moisture from eggplant with paper towel and put pieces into pan. Saute eggplant until soft and golden brown. Remove eggplant from frying pan and set aside on a plate.

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in the same pan. Add onion and garlic and saute until soft but not translucent. Add sugar, cinnamon, allspice and remaining olive oil. Stir and allow ingredients to simmer together for 1 to 2 minutes. Add tomato and cook for another 3 to 5 minutes. Return eggplant to pan, sprinkle black pepper over and mix to combine. Cook for another 10 minutes.

Place cooked rice in large serving bowl and spoon eggplant mixture over. Using a fork, toss ingredients together then allow to stand until pilaf cools to room temperature. Cover and place bowl in refrigerator until ready to serve. Serves 8 to 10 as a side dish.

AJO BLANCO
7 1/4 ounces blanched almonds
4 cloves garlic, skins removed
1 slice stale white bread, crusts removed
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Handful green grapes, cut in half lengthwise
Dash of paprika

Place ice cubes in 2 1/4 cups water to chill. Place almonds, garlic, bread, salt and olive oil in a blender or food processor and process until finely chopped. With food processor or blender running, slowly add 2 1/4 cups ice water. If soup appears too thick, add more water. (It should be creamy but not thin or runny.) Add vinegar and white pepper and pulse a few times. 

Pour into container or soup tureen and refrigerate until chilled. Ladle Ajo Blanco into bowls and gently place several halved grapes and a sprinkle of paprika on top of each bowl. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

© 2007, KATHY HUNT. DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES INC.