Another week into the new year and I’m still fixated on lighter fare. Although Asian cuisine continues to dominate my dinner menus, right now it’s not so much a specific dish as it is a spice, Szechuan pepper, that I crave. With its mildly hot, slightly piquant tang Szechuan pepper brings a clean, wholesome warmth to my winter cooking.

GROUND SZCHECHUAN PEPPER

Contrary to its name, Szechuan pepper doesn’t belong to the peppercorn family or even grow on vines as peppercorns do. Instead these reddish-brown berries come from prickly ash trees. Originating in the Szechuan province of China, they also appear in parts of Japan, India, Tibet and Indonesia. Dried, the aromatic berries are sold whole and in powdered form. With a little searching I can find both whole and ground Szechuan pepper at Asian markets and well-stocked spice shops such as Kalustyan’s.

Cooks often use Szechuan pepper to dress up spare ribs, pork loin or duck. Because I’m not a pork or beef eater, I add it to my favorite protein source, seafood. When tossed together with sea salt and possibly another spice or two, it makes a lovely, zesty coating for shrimp, char and catfish. Its gentle heat also pairs nicely with cloves, garlic, ginger, onions, rice wine, soy sauce, star anise and snow peas. When mixed with ground cloves, cinnamon, star anise and fennel, it becomes the spice blend known as Chinese five spice powder.

Below is my current favorite way to cook with Szechuan pepper. As my husband says about this Kitchen Kat creation, ‘it’s the perfect spicy food for people who don’t like spicy foods.’

SZECHUAN PEPPER SHRIMP
Serves 4

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1 teaspoon ground Szechuan pepper
1 teaspoon red peppercorns
½ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound (26-31 count) farmed, North American shrimp, defrosted and peeled
1 egg white
1 lime, quartered

In a small mortar and pestle or spice grinder mash together the salt, Szechuan pepper, peppercorns, garlic powder and ginger. Spread the mixture across a small plate.

Heat the olive in a large frying pan over medium heat. As the oil is heating, dredge the shrimp, one at a time, through the egg white and then through the spice mixture, lightly coating both sides. Repeat for all the shrimp.

Place the coated shrimp in the pan and cook for 3 minutes. Flip the shrimp over and cook until curled and cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and serve with the lime wedges.