Last Saturday I made what’s quickly becoming an annual pilgrimage to Shad Fest in Lambertville, New Jersey. Although hundreds go to check out the art, crafts and antiques on display, I’m there for the shad that swims upriver to spawn each spring.

Shad has been called the world’s boniest edible fish. Native American lore attributes this boniness to an unhappy porcupine who yearned to look different than he did. The porcupine asked the Great Spirit Manitou to alter his appearance. In response Manitou turned it inside out and tossed it into a river. At that moment the shad was born.

While its numerous, small bones make it impossible to eat whole, a filleted shad is outstanding. Possessing a rich, oily, succulent meat, shad has a remarkable flavor that needs few extra ingredients or fancy techniques to shine. Just slide the fillets under your broiler or plunk them in a pan and cook until lightly browned. You can also bake or grill this fish. I’d advise having a skilled fishmonger or fisherman fillet it for you. Otherwise, you could kill an hour, or more, picking out all the little bones.

Originally known as a food of the poor, shad eventually became prized for its flavorful meat and its sweet, nutty roe. Moist and orange in color, its roe is a springtime delicacy. It responds well to sautéing, poaching and broiling. For a classic shad roe dish, sauté it in 2 to 4 tablespoons of butter until lightly browned, about 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle a little ground black pepper over the top and serve immediately.

Unfortunately, shad has become a victim of its popularity and of modern times. According to the Environmental Defense Fund, overfishing, pollution and loss of habitat have reduced the shad population to an all-time low. Whether it recovers or not remains to be seen. With that in mind I’ll continue to enjoy shad but sparingly. So, until the next shad festival . . .

BROILED SHAD FILLETS
Serves 4

1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon paprika
pinch of cayenne pepper
4 shad fillets (about 2 pounds total)
lemon wedges, for serving

Preheat the broiler on high. Lightly grease a baking sheet with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Mix together the ground pepper, salt, paprika and cayenne pepper.

Lay the fillets, skin side down, on the baking sheet. Sprinkle the seasoning over each fillet and then slide the fish onto the oven’s top rack, directly beneath the broiler. Broil until cooked through and golden on top, about 6 minutes. You can also use a meat thermometer to determine when done. Serve immediately with the lemon wedges.