Cookbook Reviews

Matthew Kenney’s Mediterranean Cooking

Long before he became the king of raw foods, NY chef and restaurateur Matthew Kenney wrote a highly approachable cookbook on Mediterranean cuisine. Filled with vibrant photos, stories and recipes, Matthew Kenney’s Mediterranean Cooking (Chronicle Books, 1997) took readers on a culinary journey through such colorful countries as Morocco, Spain and Lebanon. It’s a trip that I’ve taken many times for Matthew Kenney’s Mediterranean Cooking is yet another beloved cookbook on my kitchen shelf.

So often Mediterranean cookbooks focus on a few countries; France, Italy and Greece usually are the standard ones. Yet, in Kenney’s book, less familiar but no less extraordinary places such as Tunisia and Turkey also have their day. Sure I can still find Greek moussaka, French ragout and Italian biscotti but I can likewise locate recipes for Lebanese kibbeh, Turkish lamb dumplings and Tunisian couscous salad. In Matthew Kenney’s Mediterranean Cooking the known and the exotic come together for some fabulous meals.

Kenney’s recipes combine a variety of countries’ signature ingredients, creating highly flavorful, aromatic dishes. For example, Italy’s salsa verde gets seasoned with Middle Eastern cumin and cilantro for Middle Eastern salsa verde. North Atlantic salmon is preserved with Mediterranean spices for cumin-cured salmon. Even India’s basmati rice receives the Mediterranean treatment, resulting in basmati pancakes with saffron, honey and mint.

Along with his creative pairings and exciting locales I appreciate Kenney’s explanations of ingredients and flavor affinities. Never once do I wonder why dried fruit ends up in a meat stew or how yogurt acts as a marinade. Sidebars dedicated to these topics – and more – accompany each recipe. Additionally, suggestions for sides – i.e. serve cumin-cured salmon with tahini yogurt sauce or warmed flat bread – accompany many dishes.

Simplicity has long played a role in my love of this book. Not one of these recipes requires a great amount of time or skill to make. Take, for instance, Moroccan spiced carrots. I toast a handful of pine nuts, cut and saute some carrots, and mix together a few, easy-to-find spices. Toss everything together in a bowl and dig in. Simple and fast!

Beauty also influences my appreciation of Matthew Kenney’s Mediterranean Cooking. Gorgeous, sun-drenched photos of food, cheery cafes and bustling kitchens pop up throughout the book. Here I receive a feast for the eyes as well as for the stomach.

Whether you crave exoticism or hunger for quick, tasty recipes, take a peek at Matthew Kenney’s Mediterranean Cooking. Chances are it will become one of your favorite cookbooks, too.

Filed under: Cookbook Reviews

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Based on the U.S. East Coast, I am a trained journalist, writer and photographer specializing in food, travel, STEM and education. My articles appear in such publications as the Chicago Tribune, LA Times, Standardization News, VegNews and See All This. I have written two nonfiction books, contributed to two other books and provided the photography for one. A world traveler, I have journeyed through 51 countries and six continents, collecting story ideas as I've roamed.