A few weeks ago Sean and I decided to revisit Ireland. Cheap airfare and the desire to relax in friendly, familiar environs made this country the obvious vacation choice. So, setting aside more exotic locals, we hopped a flight to Dublin on Easter Sunday and kicked off our first full-fledged holiday of 2009.
As anyone who has traveled with me can attest, no trip is complete without several nerdy and culinary activities. In Dublin the nerdiness comes partly in the form of a pilgrimage to Ireland’s largest bookshop, Hodges Figgis on Dawson Street. Opened in 1786, the four-story store carries over 60,000 books. As if I need another book! That doesn’t stop me from browsing the shelves at Hodges Figgis or at other charming, well-stocked shops such as The Winding Stair near the Haypenny Bridge or even the chain Waterstones, right across from Hodges Figgis.
The fun doesn’t end there. Oh no. Along with bookstores I have to check out the city’s museum offerings. This time Sean and I revisited the National Gallery of Ireland where last year I smashed my Nikon N80, bringing an end to my film SLR days. We said a few words in front of the portrait of Bono, where my camera met its tragic end, and then poked around the rest of the art museum. We also checked out the National Museum of Ireland where the gruesome remains of 4 “bog men” are displayed. Nothing like looking at dessicated corpses right before lunch.
Speaking of food, I am always pleased to report that the days of boiled potatoes and tough mutton dishes are long gone. Ireland has undergone a culinary renaissance with chefs incorporating ingredients from around the globe while staying true to the ‘buy fresh, buy local’ movement. Sure, I can order such standards as fish and chips with a pint of stout but I can also indulge in such specialities as Cashel blue cheese tarts or udon noodles topped with squash, mushrooms and green peas.
Where to find all this great food in Dublin? We frequent old favorites such as the Asian restaurants Cafe Mao and Wagamama and the organic, locally sourced restaurant The Farm. Elephant and Castle likewise remains a beloved spot. While its flagship restaurant resides on Waverly in the heart of NY’s Greenwich Village, I am partial to the Temple Bar locale.
After a tough day of wandering Dublin’s crowded streets, checking out all the fine eating, drinking, reading and artsy establishments, Sean and I head back to our spacious room at the Fitzwilliam Hotel. Overlooking St. Stephen’s Green, the Fitzwilliam is a bit posh by usual travel standards but well worth the extra Euros. Great location, great services and a great view.
